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 ADVANCED
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Morning Star T 
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Rapture, The T,S 
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Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
Southern Hospitality p1 T 
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Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 

Morning Star 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 2002 Pat Munn, Donimic Eisinger
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Matt Salter on Jun 21, 2011

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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    An excellent route on the right side of the Pilgrim Wall that deserves more attention than it gets. Three very distinct pitches, culminating in a very exposed final section.

    P1: Scramble up some ledges to a left facing corner with a crack in it (usually dirty), and move up the corner to a vegetated ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.9

    P1(alternate): A better, cleaner start is to climb the first pitch of Earthly Nights. The start is the same as above, but then climb the bolted arete, trending right towards a belay on a spacious ledge. 5.9+

    P2: Either boulder up and right from the original belay or up and left from the Earthly Nights belay and wander up the bolted face, trending left,into a left facing corner. Fun corner climbing protected by some small gear leads to another 2-bolt belay. 5.10b

    P3: Up the crack a few feet, then traverse left about 10 feet. Head up to a handcrack, protect, and then head up and left into the giant corner. Up the corner for a bolt or two, then up the finger crack on the left wall. Climb up the crack with some creative liebacking and stemming, eventually climbing up the sustained face past excellent edges (long reaches) protected by bolts to the top. 5.10d

    Location 

    At the right end of the Pilgrim Wall, just before the trail heads down a slight hill. Shares the same start with Earthly Nights.

    Protection 

    Many bolts, but bring a full rack up to a #2 Camalot, including some RP's.


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