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 ADVANCED
Redrock and vicinity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andromeda T,TR 
Black Streak TR 
Broken Ankle S,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Excuse Me T,TR 
Frosty The Boulder 
Happy Feet S 
High Me T,TR 
Hobo's Chimney, The 
Hole in One TR 
Laughing Gull S,TR 
Midnight Train TR 
Morning Glory S 
No Bolt TR 
No Steps TR 
Plank, The T,TR 
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 
Roll the Bones S 
Scotty Bones TR 
Seappage T,TR 
Slab n' Jab T,TR 
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 
Steps T 
Steps Direct TR 
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 
Swayback T,TR 
Toe Jams T,TR 
Velcro T,TR 
Why Me? TR 
Wings of Steal T 
Wink Van Ripple TR 
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 
Y - Boulder 
Zipper T,TR 
Zits S 
Unsorted Routes:

Morning Glory 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Henry Barber?
Page Views: 1,948
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Nov 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: "Morning Glory" starts to the left (not ...

Description 

Move up the left-leaning ramp. Step right to bottom of Steps crescent. Move up a tall move to a short dike. Mantle and move to the top.

Location 

This is on the left end of the main crag at a left-leaning ramp / offwidth.

Protection 

One bolt...now there are 3 bolts.


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By DFrench
From: Cape Ann
Oct 4, 2009

Update: as of August '09 there are 3 bolts protecting this climb, which felt just about right. Felt like 5.9+ on a humid day in the sun.

On a side note, has anyone climbed the left-facing corner with two crack systems that is about 20 feet left of this climb (like if you were to continue up the left slanting ramp at the start)?
By HBTHREE
From: ma
Nov 21, 2009

I think those cracks are High Me, 5.7 (5.9ish if you go direct up the slab), and 20 feet further left chimney 5.6. Both take big gear at the top like a BD #4 or Bigbro at the top of High Me. Great climbs.
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Mar 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Feels more like hard 5.9 slab if you ask me.
By Ranchhand
From: Bend, OR
Oct 11, 2010

Welcome to northshore climbing, guy, the grades are all wicked fackin' sandbagged, guy.
By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Nov 9, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is a great climb! But I agree with the last guy. The ratings are wicked sandbagged. Second mantle moving takes some pretty delicate moving to a nice slab TO.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I've top-roped this a couple of times but haven't gone for the lead yet. It's definitely in the 5.9+ range, that's actually what the guidebook says, don't know why it got put in as 5.8+.

Zits, to the left is 5.8+.
By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Dec 2, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Do people normally take the left ledge after the second mantle or smear T/O?
By mnatti
Feb 13, 2012

History lesson - this line was originally done by Henry Barber (the bottom two bolts were already there, though still not sure who placed them). The original line stays left of the middle bolt and exits as for Zits. This goes at (Cape Ann) 5.8+ (according to the old version of BR, the new one removes a bit of weight from the sandbag. Zits was originally a graded 5.7). The third bolt was added in the late '90s to protect the 5.10(+?) version of the line, which stays right of all the bolts, going up the slab.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I would say that if you move left after the second mantle it is probably a solid 5.10. Harder if you go right from the mantle on the extremely slopey rumps.

Leading it makes for a huge fall potential when you do the third(?) mantle and clip the third bolt, per say, if you were shaking like a leaf and blew the third clip...you'd probably land no more than 15 feet off the ground.

BETA ALERT:
My sequence was this for anyone wondering what I'm grading...after the dike, move right through a sloper to the crimp rail. Make this absolutely terrifying mantle, stand up and clip the third bolt. Then exit back left using the sloping edges that end "Zits," then head straight up the slab after the ledge, directly to the anchor. Going right after mantling the rail would be harder 10 climbing.
By jTaylor
Apr 2, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I don't enjoy slabs a whole lot - but I thought this was fun as well as one of the better routes I've done at Red Rocks so far.