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Morning Glory Alcove
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Morning Glory 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 3,315
Submitted By: nickv on Mar 4, 2008

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Charlie seconding my lead

Description 

From the belay ledge, climb a ramp untill it steepens and then traverse left to a small stance below a large left facing corner. at the third bolt in the corner move left to the arete

Protection 

Nuts and small cams in addition to the few bolts makes this climb pretty well protected. a few med-large cams for the semi hanging belay at the bottom.


Photos of Morning Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Sara Reeder topping out above the waves on one of ...
Sara Reeder topping out above the waves on one of ...
looking up from the belay ledge
BETA PHOTO: looking up from the belay ledge

Comments on Morning Glory Add Comment
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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Every time I go to Acadia I take a lap on this route--surely one of the most spectacular short routes of its grade in New England (especially when the surf is heavy). A word of caution: as you traverse the top of the cliff toward the rappel anchor, the last 10 feet or so is a little spooky (and the bolts aren't all that easy to spot. Consider roping up for this (it's easy to set up a belay from a pod up and left). An un-belayed slip while traversing the final few feet would surely be fatal.
By akline
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

if you clip your rappel line to the second bolt on your way down, when you pull your rope it won't go in the drink.