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Morning Glory Spire is located between Coffee Pot Rock and Jap Head. There is a seldom climbed Trad route on it's Southwestern face, and the 4th class route described here on it's Southeast face.
Park at the Devil's Sinkhole parking lot and begin the approach as per Jap Head. Walk along the trail to Jap Head for about 10 minutes until under the saddle between Morning Glory and Jap Head. Leave the Forest Service trail here and follow a climbers trail up the steep slopes to the saddle. The "technical" climbing begins at this point.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Morning Glory 4th Class Route 4th 1 2 I M 1b Trad, 200'
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Morning Glory 4th Class Route 4th 1 2 I M 1b AZ : Sedona Area : ... : Morning Glory Spire
Once in the saddle between Morning Glory and Jap Head boulder up the short headwall then turn left and scramble up. There are a few short borderline 5th class spots where some climbers may want a belay. Top out and enjoy one of the best summits in all of Sedona. (Three stars for the summit views. One star for the climbing.)...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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