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 ADVANCED
Morning Glory Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Incisor T 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Morning Glory Spire  


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Location: 42.08282, -113.72147 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 71,508
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 26, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Morning Glory Spire from the Road.

Description 

This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.

Getting There 

Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.4 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',5],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morning Glory Spire:
Skyline   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Incisor   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Book of Dissent   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Reach for the Sky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fall Line   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Morning Glory   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   
Brown Flake   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Siesta   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Crack of Doom   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Strategic Defense   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Power Tools   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Morning Glory Spire

Featured Route For Morning Glory Spire
Todd Skinner on Strategic Defense (5.11c), City of Rocks. Photo by Bill Hatcher.

Strategic Defense 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire
In the guidebook, Dave Bingham asks, "the best face climb in the City?"... find out for yourself! A slabby crux down low & a pumpy one up higher with an amazing variety of movement in a truly spectacular location. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Morning Glory Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset over Morning Glory Spire
Sunset over Morning Glory Spire
Panorama view from the top of <a href='/v/morning-glory-spire/105739635'>Morning Glory Spire</a>.
Panorama view from the top of Morning Glory Spire.
Morning Glory Spire, aka "The Incisor"
Morning Glory Spire, aka "The Incisor"
Looking South from atop Morning Glory Spire
BETA PHOTO: Looking South from atop Morning Glory Spire
Morning Glory Spire.
Morning Glory Spire.
Early morning for Morning Glory.  Lombardphoto
Early morning for Morning Glory. Lombardphoto

Comments on Morning Glory Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 22, 2005
AKA The Incisor.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 31, 2006
Perhaps the highest concentration of quality routes at the City. Awesome stuff. And you can follow the shade or sun like a sundial around the base. A 70m rope comes in handy here.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Dec 5, 2009
I lost a pair of la sportiva muiras at the base of strategic defense/crack of doom at the city of rocks, the second week of october, 2009. The shoes were probably size 40. If you found them, please, let me know.