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Monument Canyon
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Mormon Tea 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Willis, Jenter (June 1985)
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: DaveB on Mar 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Mormon Tea, 5.8+.

Description 

What appears to be a nice moderate warm-up will most likely leave you disappointed. At the base, stay near right-leaning crack and climb on subpar rock to ledge, eventually working left and up to left-facing dihedral with flaring crack and hand-sized pods. After protecting (PG13), grunt your way by whatever means around bulge to gain easier ground and bushwhack to belay ledge with tree. (The sandy nature of the rock - footwork - makes getting around the awkward bulge much harder than expected.)

If you must climb this route, I recommend walking off. Near the top lip of the route, you will see numerous deep rope gauges and gullies in the soft rock just below the anchor tree. These ruts, plus the un-rap-friendly nature of the tree & retrieval angle, will cause your rope to become nightmarishly stuck!...which of course, leads to the requisite tantrums and swearing! ;-) Save yourself the hassle and just walk off.

Location 

One of the first vertical crack/dihedrals along the trail. The route is easily seen on the right as one passes about 100 yards or so of the Lower Monument Canyon Slabs (see photo).

Bjornstad's Desert Rock III mentions a fixed piton near the beginnning, but we did not see it. (Perhaps other folks can add clarity in this regard....)

Protection 

Small-medium cams. Walk off.


Photos of Mormon Tea Slideshow Add Photo
Zach nearing sandy and brutish bulge (crux).
Zach nearing sandy and brutish bulge (crux).
Full view of Mormon Tea (5.8+) with Zack on belay ledge. Route ascends left-most crack, etc.
Full view of Mormon Tea (5.8+) with Zack on belay ...

Comments on Mormon Tea Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Garhart
Mar 22, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Skip this one, much better stuff just down canyon. Yuck.
By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 31, 2009

Good place to find Booty gear as a lot of people give up on this loose and not all that fun route.