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Moritzer Turm

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Moritzer Turm 


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Location: 49.7818, 11.3103 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on May 29, 2012
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Moritzer Turm

Description 

This large tower of rock looms over the small village of Moritz like an evil wizards tower. It's north-facing aspect and the surrounding trees add a feeling of gloom as you stare up its lightly overhanging face. This nice warm-weather crag offers some difficult routes which will have your fingertips hurting. There are 9 routes in total: two 5.13s, two 5.12s, two hard 5.11s, and three 5.10s. The climbing is somewhat atypical for the Frankenjura in that there aren't many pockets and the climbing follows tiny edges and relies heavily on good technique. The easier routes (Bella Vista, Exil, Michl Mörtel) of course aren't so technical, but offer a good possibility to warm up the muscles.
The routes are, for the most part, well protected. For the longer routes, you'll need 14-15 quickdraws.


Getting There 

From the parking area in Moritz, walk uphill into the village and past the bus stop. Take a right and go between the two garages to reach a path which heads straight up to the crag. 2 minutes.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Moritzer Turm
Bella Vista Direkt on the right, Freischwimmer on the left

Bella Vista Direkt 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a  Europe : Germany : ... : Moritzer Turm
Climb Bella Vista, which is a 7-, but where keep to the direct bolt line where it gets more difficult.After climbing for about 50 or so feet, the route heads up and to the right for another 40 or so feet of climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Moritzer Turm Slideshow Add Photo
1)Kleiner Fuchs (8), 2)Exil (7-), 3)Michl Mörtl Ged. Weg (6+), 4)Tschernobyl (10-), 5)High Gravity Day (9/9+), 6)Freischwimmer (8+), 7) Bella Vista Direkt (8), 8) Bella Vista (7-)
BETA PHOTO: 1)Kleiner Fuchs (8), 2)Exil (7-), 3)Michl Mörtl Ge...
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