This large tower of rock looms over the small village of Moritz like an evil wizards tower. It's north-facing aspect and the surrounding trees add a feeling of gloom as you stare up its lightly overhanging face. This nice warm-weather crag offers some difficult routes which will have your fingertips hurting. There are 9 routes in total: two 5.13s, two 5.12s, two hard 5.11s, and three 5.10s. The climbing is somewhat atypical for the Frankenjura in that there aren't many pockets and the climbing follows tiny edges and relies heavily on good technique. The easier routes (Bella Vista, Exil, Michl Mörtel) of course aren't so technical, but offer a good possibility to warm up the muscles.
From the parking area in Moritz, walk uphill into the village and past the bus stop. Take a right and go between the two garages to reach a path which heads straight up to the crag. 2 minutes.
Featured Route For Moritzer Turm
Bella Vista Direkt 5.11c/d International : Europe : ... : Moritzer Turm
Climb Bella Vista, which is a 7-, but where keep to the direct bolt line where it gets more difficult.After climbing for about 50 or so feet, the route heads up and to the right for another 40 or so feet of climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in International