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More Funky Than Gunky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Hauf and Tim Rawson
Page Views: 4,118
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Brice floating the roof on "More Funky Than G...

Description 

A great dihedral line. The true sport climber might feel as though the line is closer to 9+, but if you have any crack technique you will be constantly debating: Do I pull on the pockets or pull on solid jams and locks? Climb the right leaning dihedral on solid lock, until it fades into a small roof just before the chains. The crux of the roof is getting your feet over the lip, and as is often the case flexibility is one your best assets here. Hold onto the jugs and clip the chains.

Location 

The central dihedral on the formation.

Protection 

7-8 bolts to anchors.


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By Josh M.
From: Golden, CO
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The roof on this one feels great. It's well protected, but still big enough to make you feel like a rock star.
By EMT
Sep 3, 2008

last time I was there (June 08) the bolt below the roof was gone... Is this still the case? If so, you're looking at a 30 foot fall if you slip before clipping the bolt at the roof.
By Josh M.
From: Golden, CO
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

EMT:
I was there in late Aug. Though I can't remember the precise location of the bolts under the roof, I don't recall any absurdly long run-outs.
By EMT
Sep 17, 2008

Thanks Josh
I should have been clearer. The bolt hanger was missing! Not the bolt. I'll bet some kind soul put one back on there.
By Avi Katz
Sep 15, 2010

bolt confirmed, i did it a few weeks ago and it was all there. an awesome sport route with a nice enough crack to place gear on toprope or in addition to sport bolts. watch out for all the poop on the holds
By bmdhacks
Aug 12, 2012

If you haven't also climbed Gunky down the hill in the sandstone, I highly recommend it. The similarities between Gunky's second pitch and this climb are neat: both are a textured crack corner to a roof pull.
By Zak Munro
From: VT, Leadville CO
Mar 3, 2013

good line, but a little awkward depending on what hands you use. You need to have a good stance before the roof and reach blindly to clip the bolt (depending on how tall you are) and you would defiantly be looking at good fall if you screwed up. I also noticed that the lip of the roof has a very defined rope mark in the rock so for the bolt just above the roof it would be beneficial to use a long runner in order to clear it