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More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon'
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Wall 3
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A Frog in My Hand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Birthday Party T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blow Hard T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Don't Forget My Boots! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang On, Kid! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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I Could Eat a Horse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Putrid Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shark Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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What Have You Done with My Walls? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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What on Earth? TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Mahoney, Greg Bok, and Rich Beckett, 4/19/14 |
| Page Views: | 858 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The furthest left route on the lower right flank of Wall 3.
Start down at the toe of the arete just before where the 3rd class gully to the tower starts. Use the first crack for your right and the arete for your left. Don't bother trying to place any gear for the first 40 feet. Your first good piece will be a #3 at the start of the OW/squeeze chimney high up. Get inside and grovel for just enough before busting through. Now head up and left to that jagged patina face. Traverse over to what looks like a good crack, but in reality is a shallow seam. But wait! You actually can get a good finger piece in down low but that's all you're going to have until you reach the top, so get going...
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Rich Beckett getting ready to exit the chimney following on the FA. (Photo Jan Roestel)
Start down at the toe of the arete just before where the 3rd class gully to the tower starts. Use the first crack for your right and the arete for your left. Don't bother trying to place any gear for the first 40 feet. Your first good piece will be a #3 at the start of the OW/squeeze chimney high up. Get inside and grovel for just enough before busting through. Now head up and left to that jagged patina face. Traverse over to what looks like a good crack, but in reality is a shallow seam. But wait! You actually can get a good finger piece in down low but that's all you're going to have until you reach the top, so get going...
Protection
A standard rack, but you won't need that much. You can sling the oak branch en route, but that may not even slow you down if you tumble. A #3 (and perhaps a #4 if you're not feeling secure, but the chimney isn't that long). A #1 goes in well before exiting. A red TCU for the almost-crack and that's about it. (Note: there's a dorm-sized fridge block just before you get into the chimney that looks like it will take a nice .5---best to move on since that thing is going to blow sooner than later.)
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