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Upper Slab and Upper Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Gargoyle T 
Moraviana T 
Off-Width Chimney T 

Moraviana 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the climb.

Description 

A very moderate two pitch climb, with the crux being towards the top of the last pitch.

Moraviana starts to the right up the upper slab, and quickly enters a left facing corner. There's some vegetation in the crack which makes getting protection tricky. Easy moves past the corner lead to old rusted bolts for a belay.

The second pitch begins with a long scramble up fourth class terrain before you reach a nice vertical section, with some fun moves.

It's an easy climb, and easy to protect. The location is great late in the day, with a beautiful sunset.

I loved this climb, it's off the path enough that you get away from the mobs at the precipice and otter cliffs.

Location 

South Bubble, start above the lower slab, on the right.

A climbers trail at the left of the top of the cliff allegedly exists, we scrabbled right through the brush and down some 5.4 stuff then traversed back on the cliff to the belay between the pitches to rap out.

Overlooks Jordan Pond

Protection 

Basic trad rack.

Bolts provides an anchor for the end of the first pitch, the guidebook says another fixed anchor is at the end of pitch 2, but we couldn't find it.


Photos of Moraviana Slideshow Add Photo
Cristin at top of Pitch 2 - the headwall part.  Fu...
Cristin at top of Pitch 2 - the headwall part. Fu...
Charlie near to topping out on the second pitch
Charlie near to topping out on the second pitch
Looking up the climb
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the climb
top of p2
top of p2

Comments on Moraviana Add Comment
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By Barrett Stetson
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

P1 (from top of lower slabs up to railing) is probably only about 5.4. The 5.7 section is probably only the last 30 ft of P2. Takes plenty of pro where you needed it. There was a threaded rappel at the top when we were there.
By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012

The crux for me was getting off the ledge to gain the final 30' section of crack. Everything before that was pretty easy.

Regarding the route description: the tricky-to-protect left-facing corner can be bypassed via a groove a few feet to the right.