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Upper Slab and Upper Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Gargoyle T 
Moraviana T 
Off-Width Chimney T 

Moraviana 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: year round
Page Views: 895
Submitted By: steitz on Feb 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the climb.

Description 

A very moderate two pitch climb, with the crux being towards the top of the last pitch.

Start to the right up the upper slab, and quickly enter a left facing corner. Vegetation in the crack makes getting protection tricky. Power past this to a few easy moves and reach old rusted bolts to set up a belay.

The second pitch begins with a long scramble up fourth class terrain before you reach a nice vertical section, with some fun moves.

It's a pretty easy climb, and protection shouldn't be a problem after the first corner. Easy to knock out and totally fun, the location is great late in the day when you can watch a beautiful sunset.

Definitely check it out, off the path enough that the mobs at Precipice shouldn't be a problem. For a great time do it in the shoulder season @ Acadia.


Location 

South Bubble, start above the lower slab, on the right.

A climbers trail at the left of the top of the cliff allegedly exists, we scrabbled right through the brush and down some 5.4 stuff then traversed back on the cliff to the belay between the pitches to rap out.

Overlooks Jordan Pond


Protection 

Small to Medium nuts and a couple cams.

Fixed bolt provides an anchor for the end of the first pitch, and we were unable to find a fixed anchor that was supposed to be there at the top of the second.



Photos of Moraviana Slideshow Add Photo
Cristin at top of Pitch 2 - the headwall part.  Fun climbing and some interesting pro.
Cristin at top of Pitch 2 - the headwall part. Fu...
Charlie near to topping out on the second pitch
Charlie near to topping out on the second pitch
Looking up the climb
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the climb
top of p2
top of p2
Comments on Moraviana Add Comment
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By Barrett Stetson
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

P1 (from top of lower slabs up to railing) is probably only about 5.4. The 5.7 section is probably only the last 30 ft of P2. Takes plenty of pro where you needed it. There was a threaded rappel at the top when we were there.

By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012

The crux for me was getting off the ledge to gain the final 30' section of crack. Everything before that was pretty easy.

Regarding the route description: the tricky-to-protect left-facing corner can be bypassed via a groove a few feet to the right.