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The Moraine Spire is a slender pinnacle that lies on the west side of the Needles Eye Tunnel, very close to Bloody Spire. There are four known routes up the spire. Those who climb any route that starts on the east side (tunnel side) of Moraine Spire should beware - the rock quality can be poor due to the blasting done for the tunnel. Also, stay out of the way of unaware tourists in the tunnel. Perhaps this spire is best climbed early or late season. You might consider hiking in while the road is still closed.
From Sylvan Lake, drive along the Needles Highway until the road opens up to a parking lot. You'll know you're there if you see tourists walking around asking "Where's the Needle?" The road will curve to the left through a long tunnel. Park before the tunnel. The spire is the obvious tall pinnacle closest to the tunnel on the left side about 1/4 of the way through the tunnel.
1 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moraine Spire:
5.8 route on Moraine Spire 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Moraine Spire
5.8 route on Moraine Spire 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c SD : Custer State Park : ... : Moraine Spire
This route starts in a crack on the left side of the Needles Eye Tunnel. There is also a chimney on the east side which can be climbed. The crack is more on the southeast corner of the spire. Climb up this crack with poor quality rock caused by the road blast, working your way up and left. Be careful of jugs - they do break on this route. You'll get a good rest at a large flake which you can sling before continuing up the face following a small crack, moving slightly right and onto the aret...[more] Browse More Classics in SD