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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Morada 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Will Gadd '86
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 30, 2005
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route comes to us from a different era...an era in which bolts were only placed, when no other gear options existed...and so, it is scarry!

This is a really great route, with good climbing, but unfortunately, the lack of fixed pro has [relegated] it to obscurity. The route climbs the crack feature left of the virgin painting. Start by stemming a couple desperate moves to reach a crack where the #1 cam can be placed. A few more placements will get you to a ledge...the #.5 is nice to protect the move getting to the 2nd bolt. The crux involves moving between crack systems between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are no anchors, but you can lower or (better yet) rap off the "Los Hermanos..." anchors.

A good route that could be very popular if it were "modernized".


Protection 

Bolts, #1 Camalot, #2 TCU, #.5 Camalot



Comments on Morada Add Comment
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By Jim Redo
Nov 3, 2005

Color me crazy, but aren't bolts supposed to be placed only when there are no other gear options anyway?

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Nov 4, 2005

I won't "color you crazy", but I will color you a troll for asking a rhetorical question.

Of course you're not "supposed" to place bolts near other protection options, but people do, and they make for good, popular routes. At sport areas, "mixed routes" usually do not become popular. I'm not suggesting this should or shouldn't be, or that it is good or bad, I'm merely stating it as fact. For examples of such routes, visit Rifle, Shelf Road, Smith Rock, Penitente, American Fork, Logan, the VRG, Red Rocks etc..

I thought it might be helpful in the route description to explain why I think the route is not popular. If someone visits the canyon and asks themselves, "should I try this route? I don't know, [it's not] very popular, is that because it's a bad route?" They would be able to read my comments on CB.com and see that, "Oh, it's not that it's a bad route, it's just that you have to place gear, so maybe I will try it, or maybe I'm like everyone else that visits sport crags and doesn't climb the mixed routes, so no, I won't try it."

I'm sorry that my description of possibly the most obscure route in all of Colorado has offended you. Please accept my apologies.

Mike

By ac
Nov 4, 2005

No, color me a troll. What would the rating be after modernization?

By ac
Nov 5, 2005

Or, to answer Jim Redo's (non-rhetorical) question more simply:

Yes, Jim, you are correct.

By Jim Redo
Nov 5, 2005

I am so not offended. No apology necessary. Just making an observation. Love the Troll

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 5, 2005

Ironic that people are saying "color me..." since morada means purple in Spanish. It also is a chapel for Los Hermanos del Penitente.