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A generally very busy area, as 1) it's right along the road, and 2) it has routes varying from WI2 to WI4+ in difficulty, including some that are over 100' long. Most of the routes range from WI3-4, with many different lines. Access to the top of the routes is simple, albeit strenuous - walk down the road to the end of the rock band, and hike up the steep slope to the top (there used to be a parking space here, but it has since been barred by extending the guardrail - look for two large drains just past the rock wall, to mark the spot); walk back along the top of the cliff, drop a rope. Bring plenty of static line/webbing for anchors; there is no place to put in gear, nor any bolted anchors.
Take I-87 to Exit 20 (Saugerties). From the toll booth, make a left onto Rte 32N. Follow Rte 32N until it intersects with Rte 32A (6 miles). Merge onto Rte 32A and follow that until you reach Rte 23A. Make a left onto 23A; follow until you reach a bridge with obvious ice flow on the left. Continue along the road for about 1 mile to a parking area on the left (enough for a good amount of cars) and carefully walk back along the road to the climbing area.
4 Total Routes
Featured Route For Moore's Bridge
Moores - Right WI4-5 NY : Catskills (Ice) : ... : Moore's Bridge
This is the portion of the wall starting at the prominent right-facing corner and extending to the west end of the face. Actually the cliff continues another 100 ft or so around the corner from here. There are a couple run-off fed lines that form there in the late winter, grade 3ish, but most folks never think to come look at them. Anyway, the big RF corner is a fine line with a well-defined crux. To the right form 3 or sometimes 4 full-length pillars. The rightmost forms over a small overh...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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