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Moonstone Beach

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Moonstone Beach  


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Location: 41.03, -124.1125 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,588
Administrators: Rick Shull, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Nov 2, 2006
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Chance of Rain
64° | 53°
Chance of Rain
61° | 47°
Clear
59° | 44°
Clear
62° | 47°
Partly Cloudy
63° | 52°
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Richie cranking on the South Triangle Boulder in p...

Description 

Moonstone Beach is Eureka/Arcata's easiest access climbing area. The good quality sandstone and greenstone boulders and cliffs, combined with soft sand landings under most of the boulders, make this a favorite for both the "The-sun's-out-class-can-wait" and the after work crowd. From the parking area there are four main areas with clusters of problems and routes. The rock dries quickly after storms and is climbable all year 'round but it can be foggy in the summer and days of rain in the winter. A rope bag or tarp is recommended when pulling your rope to keep it out of the sand. Moonstone is also THE place to meet partners for other local adventures.

Moonstone Trivia:
#1 Many of the moderate topropes were pioneered in the 60's or earlier by Andy Montgomery, a minister from Arcata who trained on a wall he built inside the bell tower of his church.

#2 The Moonstone outdoor clothing company was started by the beach caretaker in a tin-can trailer on this beach.

Getting There 

Take Highway 101 north from Arcata, exit at Westhaven Drive(just north of Clam Beach), take a left under 101 and left back south and take the first right to the beach.

A guidebook is available at outdoor shops in Arcata and Eureka.

Camping 

Camping can be found just south at Clam Beach or 15 minutes north at Patrick's Point State Park.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moonstone Beach:
The Triangles   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 10'   North Rocks
Karen Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Karen Rock
Unknown   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   Karen Rock
Standard Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 60'   Karen Rock
Pyramid Rock South Face   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   North Rocks
No Time aka North Crack   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   North Rocks
Urchin   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 60'   Karen Rock
Lizard Head   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 40'   Karen Rock
Assembly Line   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, Chipped, 60'   Karen Rock
Dream Theme   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 55'   Karen Rock
Launch Toast   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   North Rocks
Nightmare   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 60'   Karen Rock
Sticked Wiffy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 30'   North Rocks
Browse More Classics in Moonstone Beach

Featured Route For Moonstone Beach
Tim Wilhelmi gets it!

Sticked Wiffy 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Redwood Coast : ... : North Rocks
Sticked Wiffy climbs the prominent, sharp arete just east of Pyramid Rock. Start left of the arete using face holds for the first 10 feet. Then the climb is tricky feet with blind arete holds for the right hand and thin crimps for the left. It tops out on the left side of the arete. Best conditions for an ascent is when temps are in the low fifties with afternoon sun or a good breeze to keep the rock dry....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Moonstone Beach Slideshow Add Photo
YEAH
YEAH
The end of another great day, Moonstone Beach
The end of another great day, Moonstone Beach
Pelicans and surf, Moonstone Beach
Pelicans and surf, Moonstone Beach
Looking inland, Moonstone Beach
Looking inland, Moonstone Beach
Seaweed and surf, Moonstone Beach
Seaweed and surf, Moonstone Beach
Jim Hammerle leading Karen Crack on Karen Rock.
Jim Hammerle leading Karen Crack on Karen Rock.
Sun, sea & sand - Marc entering the crux of Dream Theme (5.11c), Moonstone Beach
Sun, sea & sand - Marc entering the crux of Dream ...
Grey day.
Grey day.
Fun routes.
Fun routes.
haze...
haze...
Bouldering on the beach.
Bouldering on the beach.
I like my drysuit . . .
I like my drysuit . . .
trees
trees
From Obscure Gully.
From Obscure Gully.
more...
more...
Up the creek . . .
Up the creek . . .
THE MAN THE MYTH THE LEGEND  <br />PAUL HUMPHREY
THE MAN THE MYTH THE LEGEND PAUL HUMPHREY
nice rocks
nice rocks
Karen Rock
Karen Rock
sweet...
sweet...
south end
south end
wet
wet

Comments on Moonstone Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Dec 15, 2008
The Holladay-Hatfield is still there, although the hangerless bolts have been looking pretty bad for 15 years. The trees and shrubs seem to have overtaken the route.
By evanwish
Apr 30, 2010
I'm trying to figure out where this climb is exactly. The guidebook has "Holladay Traverse" as 5.10 and "2 old hangerless bolts, shrub belay, 35 feet" but the guide shows that one on the south side of North Rock... Any clarification?
By Christian C
From: Arcata, CA
Jul 13, 2013
what is the policy on bolting at moonstone? I've heard that it's prohibited on karen rock. can anyone confirm that? some of those lines would be rad leads.. What about bolting any other lines at north rocks or anywhere near that?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jul 15, 2013
Many of the lines on Karen Rock would make for some nice leads but due to the wide variety of beach users and complaints of desecration by local tribes, climbers have only replaced existing bolts for safety. The management plan for the beach suggested several scenarios at Moonstone that included removing all bolts or not replacing the old ones. A decision was not issued as the tribes did not pursue the removal of the bolts BUT the issue could be revisited at any time, so climbers have not pushed the issue of new bolts. We are fortunate that climbing is allowed at all at Moonstone, especially with the tribal issues. Also, pretty much all of the routes have been free soloed or led with (sometimes iffy) gear, so "leads" have been established and can be led in the style of the original lead ascents....