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Moonlight Buttress

Original Post
MikeI · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Too cold for free climbing in December? I'm not familiar with Zion at all (except what everyone says about massive heat in the summer months). Any serious help, suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Scott Bennett · · Western North America · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1,265

I think it would be tough in December. Due to the canyon walls, and low angle of the sun in December, I would guess that the first few pitches would not get sun very early. We were on it two weeks ago, didn't start super early (it was definitely light out when we left camp), and didn't get sun until p3.

And, as John said, the sun leaves the face around midday, so the upper half would be chilly.

Anyways, if you're really psyched on it, you could try to climb the first half of the route when it's in the sun, then rap to the ground. Wake up early the next day, hike to the top (easy), and rap in to climb the upper half when it's in good morning sun.

Good luck,
Scott

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

It can be done. I did the FFA of the Lowe Route on Angel's Landing in December, which gets no sun, but in retrospect, I would have liked to do it in warmer temps. I could only climb for about 4 hours each day, which made an in-a-day ascent out of the question. You could certainly get a warm spell though, and Moonlight at least gets some sun. Bring handwarmers and long underwear.

PS, hotels are very cheap that time of year.

MikeI · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Thanks for the info. Doing it in two "styles" sounds kinda fun. No worries about hotels, I'll be bringing my own on the back of my truck.

peter coe · · utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 425

I too have been thinking about doing moonlight in december. For those who climb there often, if not moonlight, then which wall would be best in december? Lookin to do an easy bigwall to try out a night on a ledge. I am open to any suggestions.

Thanks

Thomas G. · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 195

If any of you are looking for a partner for moonlight or similar, hit me up. I've been up moonlight & have everything minus a ledge, and would love to get back/get on something else.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

Almost anything outside the canyon narrows would get sun...several great walls come to mind: Gentlemen's Agreement on the Three Mary's, Tricks of the Trade on Isaac, The Fang Wall/Lovelace, anything on Mt Kinesava....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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