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Balanced Rock Wall
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12 5.9 dihedral 
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22 5.8 face climb 
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Bifurcation 
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Watermarks Left Side 

Moondust  

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Horan/ Rich Bechler, circa 1976
Season: Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: bhoran on Mar 14, 2009
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BH on FA of Moondust, Devil's Lake , WI

Description 

Hand jams and finger layaways to the top


Location 

Located on the slightly overhanging east facing wall, left of Watermarks wall, avoid stemming to slab on right.


Protection 

stoppers, cams to 3.5



Comments on Moondust Add Comment
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 11, 2009

This thing is 5.11b in the guidebook. Me thinks Bob is trying to sandbag us.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I got on this today. I thought the jams were very solid, and fun, but the wall of Bifurcation is too close and as I was laybacking the upper portion of the crack, my back was hitting the wall. Would be cooler if it weren't so close to that wall! All in all, kind of contrived but I guess it's worth it if you want good jams... they are real good.

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route is awesome! Best climb at this wall. And, probably one of the best-protected 11's at the Lake. I didn't feel like it was contrived at all (at least by DL standards). You just climb only using the crack and then the face, no need to backstep. Also, didn't have any laybacks like Andy (it's a crack, Andy, no laybacks). Feels similar to Sometime Direct, albeit shorter and burlier. Would be a DL classic if it were twice as long.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Aug 18, 2011

I keep thinking the F.A. was done in 1978 not 76. no biggy. And yes Bob will sandbag on occasion. peace etc