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> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Suicide Rock
> (k) Sunshine Face
> Sunshine Face - Right…
Moondance
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 12
votes
Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bukatude Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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First Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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My Generation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Speaking in Tongues TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Still Savage T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sundance Arete T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tempest, The TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Valhallatude T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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X Generation T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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You Flew Here, We Grew Here (Link-up) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Evans and Craig Fry - 1986, Direct start: Darrell Hensel and Dave Evans - 1986 |
| Page Views: | 4,341 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Sustained climbing on beautiful, impeccable gold rock. Brilliant route - one of the best on the face, without a doubt.
Pitch 1: Start on Sundance's easy 5.7 crack. About 30' up set up a belay, either on the top of the flake or at the base of the Sundance lieback. If the belay remains on the ground it won't be possible to reach the anchors at the end of the pitch. Climb up and left onto the steep bulge and pass two bolts (11c). Continuous climbing leads past six more bolts and finishes with an exciting runout to a triple bolt anchor. A full length runner on the obvious rightmost bolt will help reduce rope drag and make the finishing runout more pleasant.
Pitch 2: Pass another set of double bolts and work up and right, joining Sundike for it's last two bolts. Pay attention making the hard moves to the double bolts, a fall will go directly onto the belay anchor.
The 11c crux can be avoided by traversing left into the first pitch (3rd bolt) from the Log Ledge belay of Sundance.
Pitch 1: Start on Sundance's easy 5.7 crack. About 30' up set up a belay, either on the top of the flake or at the base of the Sundance lieback. If the belay remains on the ground it won't be possible to reach the anchors at the end of the pitch. Climb up and left onto the steep bulge and pass two bolts (11c). Continuous climbing leads past six more bolts and finishes with an exciting runout to a triple bolt anchor. A full length runner on the obvious rightmost bolt will help reduce rope drag and make the finishing runout more pleasant.
Pitch 2: Pass another set of double bolts and work up and right, joining Sundike for it's last two bolts. Pay attention making the hard moves to the double bolts, a fall will go directly onto the belay anchor.
The 11c crux can be avoided by traversing left into the first pitch (3rd bolt) from the Log Ledge belay of Sundance.
Protection
Bolts and a couple of small cams (up to about .4 camalot) to protect the moves to the first bolt. A couple of large cams (plus can reach around the corner and clip a bolt of the Sundance Arete) for a belay at the base of the Sundance lieback. 60m rope recommended. 70m rope makes it possible to rapp Sundance.
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