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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: S. Cater, P. Jarrard, 1991
Season: Gets early morning shade
Page Views: 2,159
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 28, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (126)
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my gf in moonbeam in March 08


This is the left-most of three closely spaced routes on the short steep section of rock. A distinct steep crux down low on dark edges and pockets is the business while the upper section lets off on the difficulty. Still, the climb is pumpy enough to warm you up for harder climbs.


From the main approach Trail go left to a short area of the wall, steep and pocketed. There are presently 3 sport routes there. From right to left these are: Into the Light (10c), Sunshine (9+) and Moonbeam (9).


5 bolts to a bolt and chain anchor.

Photos of Moonbeam Slideshow Add Photo
Lead Climb Redpoint <br />Age 10
Lead Climb Redpoint
Age 10
Lead Climb Redpoint <br />Age 10
Lead Climb Redpoint
Age 10
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By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 23, 2009

about 3/4 up the route there is a hold unlike any i have seen. it looks like a short section of say five inch diameter pipe. it's made entirely of bullet hard patina/iron oxide, and it just rests in the back of this large ledge/lip. you can stick your whole hand through it and grab it like an undercling or sidepull. amazing!!!

By JoeValley
Oct 15, 2010

Don't grab it to hard! Agreed, it's amazing. I always try to describe this hold to people and fail miserably.

By sthomas
May 10, 2011

It's a blood pressure cuff. Get up there and stick your arm through it to see if you are sufficiently warmed up.

It's also a touch loose, so be gentle.