Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Coco Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventure Guppies S 
Coco Puffs T 
Cocopuss S 
Fontanar de Rojo T 
Hidden Meaning TR 
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 
Ruta de Roja T 
Snagglepuss S 
Stupid Cat S 
Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Moon Where the Wind Blows 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan K. O'Brien, Dustin V. Yager
New Route: Yes
Season: Afternoon Shade
Page Views: 3,271
Submitted By: Jon O'Brien on May 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Moonah sings!!!!

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

"OK Moon dog, HIKE!"  

This climb has been bolted to honor the life and times of Moon, the dog. Moon was born at 8,000 ft. on March 12, 2000 to Mammoth Dog Teams under head dog-driver Jim Quimet. I ran dogs with Moonie running upper team for me for 3 seasons. Moon moved to New Jersey with me so I could get a Biology degree and then she lived in Rhode Island, California, and Nevada joining me on many rock climbs, many newly bolted climbs, skiing, surfing, and being my best friend before she departed us on April 13, 2013.

For a time, she was the best dog alive, typified by her "I will never give up, I will never stop" attitude, and I bolted this climb in her memory with her uncle Dusten, and the help of her uncle Mike :-) We love you Moon!!

A_ROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

Roadside chocolatey goodness 



The route begins on black hangars at a short scoop/ overhang in very dark, varnished rock immediately left of "Adventure Guppies". A slick sequence of overhanging 5.9 moves through the first 4 bolts gives way to enjoyable climbing on the chocolatiest rock in town before another balancy-crux prior to the anchor.

Protection 

Well-protected sport climb
8 protection bolts to a chain anchor, 10 draws total. 65' in height.


Photos of Moon Where the Wind Blows Slideshow Add Photo
Almost through the crux!
Almost through the crux!
Nice rock
Nice rock
Dustin happily clipping the anchors!
Dustin happily clipping the anchors!
another angle at the third bolt
another angle at the third bolt

Comments on Moon Where the Wind Blows Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2015
By Patrick Mulligan
Sep 13, 2013

There are a couple of bolts on this route that are placed in very strange locations. The third bolt in particular is placed in an area where its possible to load the carabiner cliped to the bolt across an edge. A couple of the bolts up higher are similar.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Sep 17, 2013

I can see why you would think that but two points:

1. they are fixe hangars and are designed to be placed slightly off vertical towards the 5 o'clock orientation, i like the design because, if a bolt gets loose, the action of hanging on the bolt tightens it slightly. they are more recent than the traditional up/down hangars you might be used to.

2. the bolts in the horizontal striations/ low angle terrain ARE in odd places because i believe in keeping bolts somewhat close to each other on an easy climb regardless of the terrain: i think that many would have simply NOT placed those bolts on that lower angle but i prefer to give beginning leaders the opportunity to make mistakes and not hit the deck/ take a huge fall.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 17, 2013

Jon- have a look at the 'Almost through the crux' picture- the bolt end carabiner looks like its being loaded over an edge on the rock. if that's the case, the carabiner can easily snap if loaded. if that's how its positioned, the bolt should be moved up an inch or two to ensure that the bolt end carabiner is not loaded over an edge while it protects the crux moves.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 18, 2013

I don't know what all of you are talking about. Looks like it protects well with hooks.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Sep 19, 2013

I'll head up there and double check that soon, thanks, if it needs to be moved I will move it ASAP.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Sep 20, 2013

Dustin placed another photo of that bolt up, i didn't think it was a problem at the time of installation, now i am double-thinking, i will head up and spend some time with it and move it up a bit if it needs it. thanks again for the comments/ suggestions.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 20, 2013

thanks dude, thats great to hear. from the look of it and knowing its the 3rd bolt, i'd drop that bolt to just below that break- keeps the clip chill and will keep the leader off the deck.
By Patrick Mulligan
Oct 30, 2013

Sorry guys, hadn't paid attention to the comments. John, you're correct. We were clipping with Heliums which are a larger carabiner and they were indeed loaded across the edge. Jon - I'm familiar with the hangers, but was concerned about what is pictured. The most offending bolt was pictured, but there was at least one other bolt that had a similar situation. Thanks for looking into it.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Dec 2, 2013

No worries, I'll swap them when the crowds die down, every time i've gone up there to work on them there have been climbers on the climb and they all preferred to keep climbing/ weren't concerned enough to finish their session. I aim to go up there 2 more times in the next two weeks and I bet the crowd'll die down w/ the colder weather coming in...
By Justin Streit
Apr 19, 2014

This third bolt has still not been moved. Take this advice with a grain of salt, John, but as was mentioned in another comment, I think it's a good idea to move several bolt placements to just below the lip rather than having them just above as you've placed them now on this route and one to the right. Rock seems better quality and avoids biners on edges.
By Cunning Linguist
Apr 19, 2014

I have to agree with Justin. The climbing isn't bad on these routes, but the bolting leaves a lot to be desired. If I didn't like and respect the first ascentionist, I would say that these were climbs worth chopping. The cheap hardware store sleeve redheads, bad bolt placements, and botched but never chopped studs make these routes more ugly than they need to be. Please take the time to fix these routes. They reflect badly on the skills of the people who put them up.

In the words of Vince Vaughn: " C'mon, man-you're better than that!"

I feel better having gotten that off my chest. The occasional sloppy placement on lead is understandable due to the stress of placing while in a stressful position, but bolting badly on rappel is just inexcusable.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
May 16, 2015

i revisited 3 times and put a ton of thought into this and i don't think its worth drilling another hole for a bolt that is 10 ft off the ground, this is a largely 4th class climb and people are not going to project it bolt to bolt, the majority of the angle is closer to a ski run than a rock climb.
I could add a fixed draw to eliminate the cross load that might occur 10 feet off the ground but the trolls would gobble that up as well. the cross load you are so concerned with would occur as a top rope while climbing: the move is well over by the time your waist hits the bolt.

this isn't a bad climb. i resent the overblown, microscopic critiques of these nice climbs that are safe and that everyone enjoys, they are nice additions to the coco crag.

the CONSTRUCTIVE criticism from other locals EXPERIENCED with new routing was definitely appreciated though: bolting highly featured 5.5-5.9 red rock climbs can be very challenging and i did consider each of your suggestions fully: ultimately I favored placing bolts at upward angles and adding bolts to sections where few others would have sunk metal in order to keep new leaders calm. i've come to find, honestly, that it is much easier to bolt climbs that are more difficult and less featured. most climbs of these grades are pretty horrifying in their "clean up" stages.

i hope those of you that exist in a reality where you are leading bolted 5.easy climbs can grow to appreciate the challenges, work, love, and effort that new route authors put into the thankless task of providing you with rock climbs at your grade. where i'm from, a new route scored a "thank you" before the critiques started and i thought that was better for everyone.

consider.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!