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Rich working the crimps on MOON STONE 11b
This climb is awesome. Awkward first bolt on slopers and pinches leads to jugs to a little inverted face climbing. Go up through a small chimney and traverse right over the roof. Then get ready for 5 bolts of dead vertical slightly overhung crimpfest.
Same start as Wind Walker. This climb starts to the left of the big roof and left of Blak Elk. There are a plethora of bolts at the bottom of the climb but use the right most of the cluster.
The book says 12 bolts but there's actually 13 bolts plus two hangers at the top.
I placed a tri-cam to protect a bolt that seemed to compromise two sizes of quick-draw.
Talia starting on moon stone
dean with the bossy heel hook
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2010
Skip the first 2 bolts as it's really just a V0 boulder problem, and the bolts are so close together. The bolts on this climb are closer together than on the walls of Momentum. If you can skip a few bolts, the rope drag will be much less and make the crimpy section up high much easier. At least sling them long.
The climb itself is fantastic. Only downside is how easy it would be to bail off to the right at any point and use black elk as a safety net.
Finally, the anchors are a little goofy, two chains at totally different heights.
May 6, 2011
dead vertical slightly overhanging.. im confused