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Moon Pie Deluxe 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 705
Submitted By: Michael Martin on Jul 24, 2007
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Description 

Well, there was a fun move, then it got thin and not fun. Not for the short climber. (*Edited to Add, Michaels climbing partner that day is about 5'2" and she suffered up this climb, although we did think it was Scoot Your Muffin (5.10b).)

Bolts are poorly placed (*Edited to add and hard to clip if you are short, best to 'pink poin' this one.)

Roof system is funky and awkward at best, (*Edited to add, I did not climb this one, but I was just to the left climbing a few routes and Michael(A competent 5.12 climber and guide in the New) was suffering though this roof.)


Location 

2nd farthest climb to the right on this awesome wall.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors



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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

It sounds like maybe Michael is describing Moon Pie Deluxe, .10d and just left of Scoot. Scoot is an awesome climb with amazing roof jugs!

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Nick,

I was there with Michael when he climbed this, we looked in the guidebook and yet again it seems like Cater's guidebook steered us wrong. Thanks for the info. Please write a description for Scoot.

By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 29, 2008

The bolts on Moon Pie Deluxe may be hard to reach for a shorter person, but they are very well placed to keep you from hitting the ledge below when pulling the crux. This route, in my opinion, is pretty stout for the 5.10c rating in the Cater guide, but is really a one or two move wonder. The bolt is right at your waist when pulling the crux with another only 4 ft away for you to clip when you reach the jug. Cool moves, give it a try! Unique moves compared to the others on Orange Oswald.

By S. Neoh
Jan 30, 2011

My partner and I climbed this route and Scoot in 1996 before they were in any guide book. We did not know the consensus grade or name for either at that time. Afterwards, we agreed Scoot is mid 5.10 and this one 10d/11a. And yeah I remember two bolts were close together about half way up. Thankful for that while we were on lead. And both climbs are quite different from the ones to their left. And shaded too for those hot days at the Oswald Wall!

[Edit, Jun, 2012:] Yes, I led this with pre-hung draws and at one point I was glad one draw was already pre-hung. My reach is about that of a 5'5" person.

By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
Aug 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A terrible bolt job to start off a terrible route. Do yourself a favor and skip this one and take Barfing Butterflies just to the right instead - its much, much better with a substantially similar line - techy face lead to roof and slopers above.

By Brandy Walters
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I don't consider myself particularly short - I'm 5'8", and I could not reach the second (or was it third?) clip. Stick clipping that bolt was an adventure. I thought the roof would be worth the clipping shenanigans below but it was just OK. After the roof was sloper hell. I have never had an Elvis leg like I did on Moon Pie. I wish I had tried Barfing Butterflies instead.