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Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
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I Love L.A. 
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Sob Story 
Teetering 

Moon Doggies 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Reese Martin (solo), 1986
Page Views: 636
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Moon Doggies, at the Foot in Ojai.

Description 

Fun and aesthetic little crack, although dirt seems to continuously funnel itself down the route.

A huge roof (protected by a 3 to 3-1/2" piece) is bypassed to the right on great holds. From here, delicate climbing up a thin crack leads to the summit.

The actual crux is near the top, on a tricky finger-lock. Place a decent nut and lose the finger lock, or take the finger-lock and forego the protection.


Protection 

Small nuts and cams up to a 3-1/2" piece.

New fixed anchors were placed on top in 2006 (two 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts with rings).



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By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great route, really fun lead, and the crack protects really well. The two bolts at the top are a very nice addition too. I used to have to extend an anchor point off bushes to set up the TR on this one; now there are two nice bolts perfectly placed for the TR. No rings or chains though. Not sure if someone swiped 'em or what.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 18, 2013

Swiped two different times, actually.