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By bowshaaa
Feb 20, 2013
great barrington
Moon Fingerboard Review

This is a link to a blog review post about the Moon Fingerboard from Moon Climbing. Check it!


Moon Fingerboard
Moon Fingerboard

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By slim
Administrator
Feb 20, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
you recommend it for folks who climb harder than 5.11 or V8, which is a pretty big difference (V8 being approx 5.13'ish).

what's the texture like? i have never used a moon board. from the color it is hard to get a good idea of what the contours (particularly radius of front edge).

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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Feb 20, 2013
slim, you can go check it out @ BRC for yourself. It has a much finer texture than the simulator/v5.12 boards.

I've also heard they may get the Eva Lopez board in a month or 2.

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By bowshaaa
Feb 20, 2013
great barrington
slim wrote:
you recommend it for folks who climb harder than 5.11 or V8, which is a pretty big difference (V8 being approx 5.13'ish). what's the texture like? i have never used a moon board. from the color it is hard to get a good idea of what the contours (particularly radius of front edge).



Meant v6 thanks for catching that (v8 was on my mind at the moment i guess? Fixed in the blog post btw)The texture is very fine, not to coarse and the edges are nicely rounded to keep from skin bunching and pinching. The blog has some elevated shots to get different angles but I couldn't get optimal shadows.

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Feb 20, 2013
bowshaaa wrote:
Meant v6 thanks for catching that (v8 was on my mind at the moment i guess? Fixed in the blog post btw)


V6 is still more like 5.12/5.12+, so you haven't quite corrected the gap there.

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By KJP
From Albuquerque, NM
Feb 20, 2013
But most people boulder harder then they sport climb.

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 20, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
I sure as hell don't boulder harder than I rope up. Thanks for the review though. Any more perspectives of moon board vs DDRC v12

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By frankstoneline
Feb 20, 2013
KJP wrote:
But most people boulder harder then they sport climb.


Benefits from fingerboard training are in regards to size of edge one can hold/finger strength, I think generally more people boulder harder than they sport climb because of accessibility. The "use this board if you boulder harder than ___ and sport climb harder than ___" discussion would be better directed at hold sizes than route difficulties. Really one's main concern is not the grade but the types of grips encountered on routes of these grades.

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By bowshaaa
Feb 20, 2013
great barrington
JCM wrote:
V6 is still more like 5.12/5.12+, so you haven't quite corrected the gap there.


Ha i knew someone would get that one in! Well i wasn't trying to say they were equal, and it said harder than 5.11. It was what i thought someone should use if they climb harder than those levels

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By boulderbum
From NY
Apr 9, 2013
stop making threads that link to your gay ass blog

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 9, 2013
El Chorro
Just because v6 is harder than 5.11 doesn't mean that the recommendation doesn't make sense. If all you do is climb routes, then 5.11 is a pretty good benchmark. Anyone who is still operating in the 10's doesn't really have any business using a fingerboard (at least not this one) and probably isn't going to benefit much from trying.

If all you do is boulder then v5-v6 is a pretty good benchmark as well. Most people who boulder exclusively can attain that grade by just bouldering, and not worrying about any extra training. However, a boulderer who is climbing v3-v4 will benefit more from bouldering than fingerboard workouts, which is why the OP gives the grade he does.

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