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Moon Campus Workout
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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Nov 8, 2011
Pup Tent OS

I'm getting my training plan together for this winter and I came across this interesting campus workout on Ben Moon's site: usa.moonclimbing.com/training-plan-c-334_345.html

It's interesting to me because I've always done my campus workout (with max recruitment in mind) as 1 set with 5 minutes rest before starting the next. Moon's workout suggests doing multiple sub-sets with a short amount of rest in between (1-2 minutes) and then resting the full 4-5 minutes before moving onto the next campus exercise.

I'm wondering of the benefits to doing Moon's workout for max recruitment. Looking at it it seems like this workout teeters on power endurance? My knowledge of max recruitment says that you want to be completely recovered between campus sets in order to be able to give 100% to that set.

Thoughts?


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Nov 8, 2011
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.

The rest intervals described in the Moon workout seem correct to me. I generally rest 1-2 minutes between campus sets, unless I'm warming up and doing easy sets in which case 20-30 seconds is enough. I don't generally add any extra rest when I switch between exercises though. If I'm struggling I might take a longer rest (5 minutes or so) and try to re-set.

A campus set takes less than 10 seconds. If it takes much more than that, its not really power. So you shouldn't be getting pumped in any way whatsoever.


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 8, 2011

After playing around with different rest intervals we have settled on 3 minutes rest between sets. I bet we could get away with less for simple ladders (1,2,3,4,5 . . .) but for anything powerful (1,4,7) we just start failing when we cut short our rest.


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