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Wiggins' Wall
Routes Sorted
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Fringe of Death 
Green Squared 
Mo Verde 
Moon Age 
Smear Campaign 
Youth, The 

Moon Age 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, 2009
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: matthew sullivan on May 28, 2011
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Chad coming up from the last bolt.

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Description 

This is a long 1 pitch route. Start with Mo' Verde, but after the first bolt head straight up the wall. The Colorado Climbing guidebook lists this route as a 10a, but there is only 1 or 2 10a moves in the route, mostly it is 9 moves the whole way up. The crux is in between the 3rd and 4th bolts when you are pulling on flakes(pull down, not out!).

Descent: Scramble up above the anchors to top out, and then climb down the back side and around. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap it, too.


Location 

This is on the Wiggins Wall, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, CO Springs.


Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (same anchors for The Youth).



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By Stewart M. Green
Jul 5, 2011

FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, 2009.

It is getting easier as the holds get bigger and tiny crimps become big ones. The upper part is mostly just sustained 5.9 moves...

By Newton
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

3rd bolt is ready to blow, which could result in a groundfall.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I don't know, guys, this was one helluva tough onsight! Tall, hard, and sustained, it reminded me of Green Squared. Although not as hard as that route, Ryan, Mollie, and I all thought this one was sustained, desperate smearing and definitely harder than The Youth. I think a lot of the holds have rounded off and become slick. Great route though!