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Moolack

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty T 
Blood On the Cracks T 
Cleaned For Her Pleasure T 
Compromising Positions T 
Eta Eva T 
Extreme Makeover T 
Fist Fight T 
Full Circle T 
Gold T 
Lost Art T 
Mr. Clean T 
page for page fixes to NWOR T 
Pledge Allegiance T 
Plumber's Crack T 
Radical Sabatical T 
Sendero De Sangre T 
Sidewinder T 
Up on A Pedestal T 
Zion Train T 

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Moolack 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,000'
Location: 43.8741, -122.154 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,307
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Aug 1, 2012
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: No Material Content (cliff w/ route lines) made th...

Description 

High quality crack climbing area, on a south facing cliff-band along the Aufderheide Memorial Highway 19 leading out of Westfir, Or. The area is a NO-BOLTS climbing site with convenient cracks for leading and trees for anchoring. Some routes require gear midpoint anchors. Most routes are over 30 meters, a 70 meter rope can be essential, even for just safe-toproping. All routes that have been developed here required extensive cleaning and route preparation, so be careful venturing into virgin terrain as loose rock is extensive. Both onsighting and headpointing has been part of the rich tradition of "trad" climbing here. The current publishing (2012) hosts information for more than 70 routes, but the cliff is far from tapped out. Bill Soule is the areas original developer. With no bolts, evidence of route development is limited to oral exchange and what has been printed in Northwest Oregon Rock. The area hosts bouldering, but it is not a primary focus, and is still in its exploratory mode.


The book that contains Moolack Guide: www.northwestoregonrock.com

Amazon also sells it: www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0963566067/

The areas website: www.wix.com/ire510/moolackrockclimbing


Getting There 

Moolack is located on the west side of the Cascades. From I-5, take exit 188-A in south Eugene towards Westfir, Oakridge and LaPine. After passing the town of Pleasant Hill travel Hwy 58 on the south bank of the Dexter Reservoir. Exit Hwy 58 to get on the Auderheide Memorial Road 19, at a junction located near the regions Ranger Station. Road 19 goes through the small town of Westfir before becoming the well maintained and well traveled recreational byway. If you are travelling from central or eastern Oregon, Hwy 58 is accessable south of LaPine. From 19 turn right onto the clearly labled branch road 1944. The road dips, then crosses over a bridge and the road forks; take the left fork onto FSR 750 and travel east with the cliff-band now to your north. After turning onto FSR 750 the cliff becomes visible on the left. FSR 750 terminates in a parking lot with a sign for the Fischer Creek Trailhead. On foot Fischer Creek Trailhead intersects with the river. Cross the log-bridge and walk through the campsites. A set of boulders marks the start of the steep scree field below Moolack's cliff-face. Fifteen minutes of arduous uphill hiking connects you to a well-established trail. This trail will switchback to the cliff-bands base, at the bands extreme right or eastern edge. West of an eastern edge hike-around, routes begin, unfolding right to left along a cliff-base trail.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',15],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Moolack
Sendero de Sangre did have an action photo included in NWOR, but given b &w and no clear content reference, this will supplement.  Past (left, west of) Sendero de Sangre will be the "Uncleaned" Walls presented here w/ no inclusion in NWOR.

Sendero De Sangre 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  OR : Moolack
A classic route. Aside from the stellar pinnacle top of this route, its obvious splitter crack is also a defining aspect of the route. Fun, but stiff and can seem longer or more sustained than it appears from the base. Rarely climbed, this route saw nasty rockfall during its FA (sangre = blood) and to the climbers left of the route EXTREME LOOSENESS still exists, amongst other potential route lines....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Moolack Slideshow Add Photo
A small window aligning the cracks left of X marks.  Tracking for many of these lines came in after the book was sent to publish.  Here is additional tracking for these lines.
BETA PHOTO: A small window aligning the cracks left of X marks...
Outside of multiple incorrect citations of Eta Eva,  there was no content material shot for Project Helter Skelter.  This route was top-roped heavily during the development of Eta Eva and Deception Crack, but never attempted as a lead.
BETA PHOTO: Outside of multiple incorrect citations of Eta Eva...
The dangerous toys topo photos ignored happy rapping, scared alive, and at the time bag full of hammers wasn't sorted out.  It was another line that's information came in after the deadline to submit the bulk of the material.  Here is an ammended version for those who have picked up NWOR.
BETA PHOTO: The dangerous toys topo photos ignored happy rappi...
All photography action, content or otherwise ends at Sendero de Sangre tower in NWOR.  Shangri-La is on the cliffs west edge turn-around, and is accessable on the cliffs undeveloped north flank.  It is still a leadable project that has been top-roped a handful of times.
BETA PHOTO: All photography action, content or otherwise ends ...
Rainy day pic.  Better than nothing.  No visual material for Slot Machine made the NWOR book.  If this crack is not indeed Slot Machine, it is a different climb of note down by Gold Gulley, in the same vicinity as the elusive Slot Machine.
BETA PHOTO: Rainy day pic. Better than nothing. No visual ma...
Developed climbing is limited to Moolack's south facing flank currently.  And for good reason.  The north flank, that could be theoretically reached via the Aufderheide w/out turning off on 1944, has no directly trail and requires hiking to this point, the west edge turn-around, to traverse around to the north flanks face.  The east edge of the north flank can be reached at the cliffs east edge walk-around, but the cliff is less defined there and can be difficult to discern the cliff top from above.  The north flank is hardly the quality development spot, for now.  But if a day ever occurred when all real-estate on the "normal" south flank (not likely to happen) there would be potential for more lines here, at least for the very west edge.  As you progressive move east along the north flank the cliff is quickly devoured in foliage and moss, much more so than even the frontside.
BETA PHOTO: Developed climbing is limited to Moolack's south f...
Sendero de Sangre
Sendero de Sangre
Slot Machine is an OW climb of note somewhere around Gold Gulley.  I would be surprised in no way if this is actually not Slot Machine, as I'd believe there are other wide slots not climbed at Moolack.   In either case Slot Machine is out there, in the vicinity of Gold Gulley, before the west edge turn-around.
BETA PHOTO: Slot Machine is an OW climb of note somewhere arou...
Information in terms of Element's of Styles' alternative finishes came in after the deadline to send Moolack to the publisher.  Here is this addition that would have had a difficult time finding space in NWOR.
BETA PHOTO: Information in terms of Element's of Styles' alter...
Beyond the Sendero de Sangre tower is a series of uncleaned, undeveloped short walls.  Some may reach beyond a pitch, but the bulk is in the shorter range.  The rock is more fractured at this point of the band than previous to Gold.  The angle of these walls have long thought be capable of "moderate" climbing (5.8, 5.7 and below) which has made this region a target for many Lack developers seeking sub .10 grades.  Unfortunately, this region of the band is furthest from the approach trails end, so hardly sees development opportunities due to the many gem climbs that still exist long before this section is reached.  During 2004/5 a secondary approach from the roadside campground, water-crossing, then scrambling to the west edge turn-around created a scenario where an approach ended closer to these bands.  The water-cross tyrolean and loose trail is long gone now, and few approach the crag from this west end.
BETA PHOTO: Beyond the Sendero de Sangre tower is a series of ...
First Ascent Photo: <br /> <br />Karsten Duncan, Nip Tuck
First Ascent Photo:

Karsten Duncan, Nip Tuck
Uncleaned, Undeveloped walls of climbing.  Loose rock level higher here than other developed walls.
BETA PHOTO: Uncleaned, Undeveloped walls of climbing. Loose r...
Another Workingmans/Nightmare.  See other past Gold topo for descript.
BETA PHOTO: Another Workingmans/Nightmare. See other past Gol...
uncleaned walls.  See other uncleaned walls
BETA PHOTO: uncleaned walls. See other uncleaned walls
First Ascent Photo: <br /> <br />Karsten Duncan, Nip Tuck
First Ascent Photo:

Karsten Duncan, Nip Tuck
Dru's Cruises' twin over on Uncleaned Walls
BETA PHOTO: Dru's Cruises' twin over on Uncleaned Walls
The route line fixes for Baker's Dozen and Bold Deli Flavor came in after the book had already been sent to the publishers.  I asked numerous times if these adaptions could be made, but it missed the timeline.  This photo would have likely been omitted anyway because there was little room for topo photos specific to the 2nd pitch of climbs.  Here is the 2nd pitch of those two routes with the belay ledge in action.
BETA PHOTO: The route line fixes for Baker's Dozen and Bold De...
uncleaned walls <br />
BETA PHOTO: uncleaned walls
Within NWOR Dangerous Toys' topo is limited to one shot with no variant finishes (Bag Full, Scared Alive).  This angle also gives you perspective to next set of lines.
BETA PHOTO: Within NWOR Dangerous Toys' topo is limited to one...
from the camp lot.  west edge turnaround where shangri-la is, just out of view on the left edge of photo
BETA PHOTO: from the camp lot. west edge turnaround where sha...
Slot Machine is an elusive son of a gun.  This, correlating with other add-in material that didn't make the NWOR book is my best current guess at Slot Machine.
BETA PHOTO: Slot Machine is an elusive son of a gun. This, co...
The increased fracturing in the unclimbed uncleaned walls is evident in this shot.  Good climbing, but the 3-4 or more cleaning sessions per route may increase in this band.
BETA PHOTO: The increased fracturing in the unclimbed uncleane...
Witches Finger was included in NWOR, but no topo photo was included, as it doesn't have an established route.  But, if your looking for D.P. or if your trying to link beyond D.P..  Finding and utilizing Witches Finger is helpful.  And just maybe this will inspire someone to finish the job of other past developers and send cracks running up both sides of the obvious finger of rock.
BETA PHOTO: Witches Finger was included in NWOR, but no topo p...
Comments on Moolack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 10, 2012

My .02:
Moolack is an incredible climbing venue with a high concentration of hard, splitter crack climbing on excellent rock. It is near and dear to me as a crag that taught me a lot about climbing. I can't emphasize enough how awesome it is and, in the same breath, how important it is that we not trash the place. It's been called "a wilderness crag with a front-country approach" (15 minutes...) and the fact that it's on designated wilderness makes it vitally important that we as climbers do an exemplary job of self-policing when climbing up there. Please don't leave a bunch of garbage, (duh) obvious gear caches, turds, or fixed ropes/slings/gear at the crag!

I feel awkward writing this as it's so obvious, but now that it's published in print and online, land managers are potentially going to get curious and see what exactly it is we've been doing up there. With that in mind, please do your best to leave no trace.

Lastly, the information published here and in print was done so contrary to the general consensus of the people who currently frequent the crag. Additionally, some of the route information is incomplete and/or entirely incorrect. Bear that in mind when climbing something for the first time and, when in doubt, TR a climb first!
Enjoy.

By JoeR
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 20, 2012

To say that this crag being published in a guidebook and now being put online goes against the community consensus is putting it gently.

This crag shouldn't even be up here on MP.

But since it is, please tread lightly and read the route descriptions and grades with a grain of salt.

By PDub-Trad
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Sep 20, 2012

Corrections and additions that should have made first print will be going up soon. See here or rc.com or wix site cited above for updates and corrections. My work towards Moolack for a guidebook is always an active process. I’m aware of the page for page corrections needing to be made to NWOR, and will have those changes made and updates bulleted here.

Identifying who is and who isn’t a member of any climbing area’s “community” is subjective. And to speak on that community’s behalf is pretty much impossible. It is true that there is a group of climbers in Eugene who are both original and current to Moolack and stands apposed to the book being published in any way; Max speaks knowledgably and wiselyon that groups’ behalf, and I respect and commend him for representing a valuable stance in this issue. However Moolacks’ “climbing community” is not limited to those who live in Eugene. It is a bit easier for those who live in Eugene to have a problem with “outsiders” coming to “their” crag due to a book, considering there is quite a bit of the same route knowledge available thru word of mouth. A “local” mentality is not unique to Moolack, and it’s a situation that’s inherent to many of Oregon’s best areas. Does that mean that climbers elsewhere don’t deserve to enjoy Moolack? Does that mean that unless you live in Eugene you’re expected to climb only the obvious and attainable routes of the area on your visits? Climbing shouldn’t be an elitist activity where participation is based on who you know or who you’ve come into contact with.

The reason I felt Moolack should be included in Tim Olson’s Northwest Oregon Rock was that the area was seeing more and more climbers from all over with minimal understanding of the area and only climbing the most obvious and available routes like Lost Art, Up on A Pedestal, Guillotine and other more known area classics. These are great routes but the risk is run of overcrowding routes like these – Why, because they are available and obvious. Given that Moolack has a copious number of high quality routes is it a positive situation to have visitors limited to the few climbs available and obvious to them? In my opinion that’s a recipe for crowds, at a climbing area that is the abstract of “elbow to elbow” climbing. I also acknowledge and appreciate the efforts of original developers, outside of those obviously linked to the area. There were those before me, I have had my time at Moolack, and there has been batches of new climbers to come around since that time. Without a guidebook, there is little knowledge of route development outside of Mike and Bill routes. That’s a reality, but that’s not to say the efforts of everyone else is null. These original developers who have moved on from the state and who’s route’s now have moss moving in – they didn’t not develop routes. Their time at Moolack needs recognition just as much as those who will be credited without a book in place.
My overriding goal was with the book is and always will be keeping Moolack free of bolts. For whatever reasons I did or didn’t, would or wouldn’t, put Moolack in a book, my overriding goal has been to keep an extremely unique resource unique: Moolack needs to remain Bolt-less for the greater good of climbing. In this debate there will always be people who say the area has a better opportunity remaining bolt-less by remaining “word-of-mouth” or “hush-hush”. I disagree. I give climbers as a whole the benefit of the doubt and feel if you educate climbers about bolt-less climbing, make clear “…here is where we are climbing bolt-less, and here is where it is working well.” When you provide for climbers at a greater stage the Moolack experience – you hold a candle to boltless climbing elsewhere in the future.. I would love for Moolack to be less unique. I would love for others to have acknowledged other areas for their bolt-less potential. But, the reality is, without more awareness of what Moolack is and how it can benefit climbing, 10, 20 years from now, we won’t even understand what bolt-less climbing was.

Previous to the book being out any random climber could have come along, put in bolted anchors and there is little recourse in terms of placing blame in said climbers error. Without a guidebook, without information out there about Moolack’s bolt-less standards, how would that person understand that what they were doing was wrong? Word-of-Mouth? B.S.

We can only hold would-be bolters accountable if we make the Bolt-less ethic clear to everyone. The area is going to develop and grow and outsiders will come in. Do you want informed outsiders? or do you want visitors to fully understand the bolt-less ethic and climb within it?

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 25, 2012

Paul,
Would you be willing to move your comment to the forums and/or edit it down to information about Moolack? (that is to say: information someone visiting there for the first time will need to know, as opposed to esoteric discussion of why they're reading about it on the internet) In its current form, it's lengthy (likely to spark discussion), somewhat of a rant, and somewhat off-topic. (Pretty much 4 for 4 on Guideline #3) In short, this isn't the place for it.
Cheers,

(I'm sorry, I can't help myself. I'm taking the bait. Peter Franzen, Please move all of this to a thread!)

Additionally, I think you have a flawed perception of the opinions of people who don't want info on MP or RC or Wiki. It's not that we don't want other people to visit the crag because we see it as 'ours' and don't want to share or that we think it should be hush-hush. On the contrary, I've tried to talk almost every climber I've met in two years of traveling around the west to check this incredible place out. (with zero success!) I simply don't want it broadcast shotgun-style all over the internet. I think we need to be more deliberate and intentional in how we go about it.

You're entirely missing the point on the bolts. It has nothing to do with anyone's perception that bolts are 'worse style' or clean climbing is 'better style.' Sure it's fun to do a line on gear that someone else would probably bolt, but the simple fact is that we stand to make a better case as a responsible user group in the eyes of the Forest Service if we don't drill. (more simply put, we're less likely to lose access) You've taken Bill's original idea of, and I quote, "don't screw the place up" and blown it into an ethical soap box that very few people actually care about.

Ideally, all that this would be is an esoteric argument about how we should behave at a place that gets fewer than 20 unique visitors per year. Unfortunately, you've made it your life's mission to be the Lorax of Moolack and have sprayed route information all over the web. Now we need to be very careful in how we present the process of cleaning a new line at Moolack. If the FS thinks we're destroying hanging gardens and cliff vegetation in a wilderness area, they're not going to be happy.

The emphasis of Bill's idea was always to clean the lines as gently as possible to minimize both visual impact when looking at a line from the ground and actual impact to the cliff's ecosystem itself. This is why we don't clean massive swaths of moss off of the 5.6 start of a line that goes at 5.11. This is why we don't cut trees on the trail or cliff. This is why we don't drill, hammer, leave large amounts of fixed anchors or leave ropes hanging on the cliff for a season. This is why you won't find obvious gear caches strewn around the crag.

By PDub-Trad
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Oct 19, 2012

Wrapped up additions and corrections for Moolacks section in Northwest Oregon Rock here on mtnproject and here: ire510.wix.com/moolackrockclimbing#!updates

If you've developed routes beyond the book and would like to see it added, either to the website or reserved for future publishing please contact me: ire510@hotmail.com

By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Mar 26, 2013

> Climbing shouldn’t be an elitist activity where participation is based on who you know or who you’ve come into contact with.

The personal touch had nothing to do with elitism. It has to do with introducing people to a special place which has its own rules of conduct like not over-cleaning routes or leaving your ratty old static lines out (yea, I'm looking at YOU!)

The reason you published Moolack is because it became your raison d'être. Before you published you already rationalized the decision in various, unconvincing ways like (laughably) suggesting it would improve safety when in fact it only invites inexperienced climbers into the wilderness, threatening its closure (Menagerie anyone?).

Limiting newbies to more obvious climbs doesn't create crowding. This is just another laughable rationale that makes no sense on its face. When the hell has there been crowding at Lost Art? Who, if viewing such "crowding", wouldn't suggest a climber to try something else? This is how climbers learned about areas in the past, and it was a larger, magical world full of discovery and belonging. Now climbing areas are but a cheap commodity to sell shitty guide books for REI gumbys.

For your own good I hope you find a better way to channel your ego before you ruin other climbing areas.