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Montezuma's Revenge 

Montezuma's Revenge 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis and Jim Wilson, 1973
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 1, 2006
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Description 

This is a superb two pitch climb with lots of adventure. The crux is on pitch 1, with runout moves over a small, exposed overhang. Figuring out the easiest sequence is trickier than actually making the moves. The second pitch (5.10A) involves a scary mantle onto the lip of a large roof.


Protection 

standard rack



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By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 20, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

Wow! This route brings back frightening memories when I and K. Klis did this route back in the early 80's! If my memory serves me correctly, I remember leading both pitches, first, liebacking up a small, left facing dihedral to a liken spattered flake which you undercling for about 4-5 meters out to the left. You then, after the flake runs out, with the last cam under the flake to your right about two meters, pull off this crux high-step (5.10b) by smearing up onto a nub into a standing position and THEN clip the bolt! A short easy face brings you to the belay stance under the Toad's Lip (roof) above. ONE bolt protects you below on the face as you literally stand up under the roof, palming your way out backward then grasping the HUGE lip behind you. Once you cut your feet loose and you stop your legs from swinging, you heel-hook, I believe it's your right foot, over the lip and surmount it using good mantle technique.

THE FEAR ISN'T OVER...

You traverse about 6 meters back to the right, unprotected along the edge of the Toad's Lip, where you'll find the next bolt another 3 meters above on the wall (probably a 5.8 move), clipping it with great relief! Your partner does the same thing when he follows for he's just as unprotected as your were! The face above is runout 5.6 - 5.7 to the top. Good Lord!

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Mar 9, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is another stonemasters classic with pro of the day and dynamic moves. great fun.

By usetob
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

First post describes the route pretty good; strange moves to get started with the mantle above to finish off the classic. The style totally signifies the trad mantra, bolts only where you need them. If you can climb 5.10 should there be bolts on 5.7?

By Bob Gaines
Nov 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

I believe the infamous "toads lip mantle" is actually the one at the start of P2 of Godzilla's Return.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 3, 2011

See, I was still confused! Thanks Bob - yes, I've moved my comment to the correct location.