Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches
FA: F. Dallago, A. Dallago, G. Valle, A. Menardi, P Michielli, D. Constantini (1970)
Page Views: 864 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 18, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description Suggest change

First three pitches are the best(crack system) but stay wet a little longer. Cool climbing in bomber rock, with a hand crack crux in the second pitch (one 5.7 move). The climbing eases in later pitches, and rock is less solid.

Location Suggest change

Park at Paso di Giau and walk to the north to the southwest face. Ascend trail with some easy 5th grade climbing to the start.

At the top, walk to the north and then to the west. Walk around the rock with the hut on top and back to the pass.

Protection Suggest change

Some pitons, fixed anchors. Standard rack and slings.

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Photos

Kim Miller (RKM) on the key traverse pitch
Kim Miller (RKM) on the key traverse pitch
 1
Martin Bennett following the crux pitch. Traverses just enough to make the wall below overhung. To escape, one would have to reverse the pitch.
Martin Bennett following the crux pitch. Trave…
 1
The descent is dismissed in our description as "easy". Easy it might be but for the length of the climb this is a relatively long and involved way down. Here getting quite close to Cinque Torri (with the magnificent Tofana Di Rozes behind) before doubling back to descend the via ferrata.
The descent is dismissed in our description as…
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RKM completing the traverse pitch
RKM completing the traverse pitch
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Great rock, great protection, great fun!
Great rock, great protection, great fun!
 0
Monte Gusela, Passo Giau summit. Very crowded and a hard place to park.
Monte Gusela, Passo Giau summit. Very crowded a…
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Route summary
Route summary
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