Monte Cucco is one of the better known and more popular climbing areas in Finale Ligure, with folks climbing since the late 60’s.
Pile of routes from 5c to 6b. Of the nearly 250 routes, the median grade is probably around 6b and with good routes in the 3a to 4c range, the area is very popular with beginners and climbers of modest ability. As such, locations where there are a cluster of easier grades tend to be very crowded and the rock fairly polished.
With 9 sectors perched in a semi circle above Feglino, great views of the surrounding countryside are available from this crag’s west through north aspects.
The most popular climbing areas are:
• Settore Della Torre
- Popular with groups of beginners with historical routes and fine position. Distinctive tower formation complete with summit Madonna.
• Settore Centrale
- Fine climbing, with a gob of classics in the 5b to 7b range. Some multi pitch routes available, with the first pitch of several of these routes being fine routes in themselves.
• Fenia O Anfiteatro
- Noted for having some of the earliest routes in the area (the classic Supervitt established in 1968), this area hosts high quality routes in a variety of grades (especially 5b to 7b) on steep, pumpy holds. Also known for becoming impossibly crowded during rainy periods as the amphitheatre is a natural umbrella.
Camping available, some toilet facilities, with pizza across the road. For single travelling climbers, this would be the crag to hit if looking for partners.
Monte Cucco can be accessed from either above and north of Finalborgo, or, from the A10 exit at Orco/Feglino. Note that Feglino and Finalborgo are around 6 kilometers apart.
From Finalborgo: follow the road signed as for Feglino. Near Feglino, take the right turn that is signed for Orco. In a couple kilometers, note the il Refigio restaurant and look for a cement driveway leading steeply back to the right. This driveway is just prior to and nearly across from the pizza restaurant on the left.
If coming from the A10 exit, head towards Orco and follow the above.
Drive up the road for around a ¼ of a kilometer, where one finds several parking spots available at the camping facilities (toilets/shower) as well as just above and beyond under the shade of the treed canopy.
16 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Monte Cucco:
Featured Route For Monte Cucco
Moby Dick 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a International
: ... : Settore della Torre
Steep and improbable. Climbs up the prow of the Tower.Well bolted.From the first pitch of La Torre, instead of climbing out to the right, near the bushy tree belay, climb up left to the larger ledge below the arête of the Tower. Climb up and slightly right of the arête. Pass several roofy spots, always with a thank goodness hold to provide some confidence that there will be another.Really great position on this classic pitch. Belay just below the statue of the Madonna. Enjoy the view!Rappel...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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View from Monte Cucco toward Feglino