This is the formation which dominates the skyline as you climb the Passo Giau from the south. It lies southwest of the Cinque Torri and west of the Nuvolau. The majority of the climbs are on it's south face.
There are three approaches of verying length and difficulty.
First, one can approach from the southwest from the Cinque Torri either by the chair lift from the Passo Falzareggo Road or the Rifugio Scoiattoli.
Secondly, one can approach from the road up the south side of the Passo Giau, by taking the ski lift from the parking area 2km west of the top of the pass.
Third, one can approach the formation by parking at the top of the Passo Giau and hiking from there. This is the approach recommended by Kohler and Memmel, but seems to include an unnecessary up and down and a lot of walking.
The first two pitches are pretty forgettable, but the last five pitches, off the big ledge, are worth the approach. The crux is probably the fourth pitch, Alvera Traverse. Don't forget to sign the register can in the hole at the end of the pitch.The last pitch is pretty loose. Try not to knock anything down on the climbers below and get a solid belay on top....[more]Browse More Classics in International