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A classic beginners route, either on lead or toprope, and is just plain fun. Because of this it's usually crowded, but worth the wait. Head up the crack using mostly face holds to the chain anchors.
Look for the obvious crack system just right of the short but fat right-facing dihedral (where you'll find Fear and Smear), set back from the road.
Standard rack
A blocky crack and ledge route... takes nice cam placements all the way (great for beginning leaders)... an interesting mini-roof move at the crux that protects very well (I think with a #3 Friend)... then run out the low angle crack to the top.
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