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Trapper Creek 
Yankee Jim  

Montana  


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Location: 46.85073, -114.01914 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 891,957
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: GhaMby on Jan 12, 2007
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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The Doublets during a midwinter storm.

Description 

A big state with lots of climbing.

Getting There 

Look on the map; it is near Idaho and Wyoming.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

917 Total Routes

['4 Stars',114],['3 Stars',354],['2 Stars',262],['1 Star',121],['Bomb',17]
['<=5.6',33],['5.7',37],['5.8',80],['5.9',114],['5.10',239],['5.11',178],['5.12',94],['5.13',18],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',50],['V4-5',13],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Montana:
Cleopatra's Needle   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 250'   Hyalite Canyon : Twin Falls Area
The Dribbles   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'   Hyalite Canyon : Dribbles Area
Winter Dance   WI5-6 M8     Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 450'   Hyalite Canyon : Winter Dance Area
The Thrill is Gone   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 205'   Hyalite Canyon : The Unnamed Wall
Skyline Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Gallatin Canyon : Skyline Buttress
Sparerib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area
Southwest Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   Humbug Spires
The Mutt and Jeff   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Humbug Spires
Standard Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Diesel Driver   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress
Pineapple Thunderpussy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Gallatin Canyon : Pineapple Buttress
Shoshone South Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Blodgett Canyon : Shoshone Spire
Tigger   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Flake Fest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Black Line   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress
Theoretically   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock
My Moms Muscle Shirt   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Blodgett Canyon : Flathead Buttress
Montana Centennial Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1600'   Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque
Timebinder   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Blodgett Canyon : The Prow
Bowling for Buicks   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Browse More Classics in Montana

Featured Route For Montana
Elliot Dubriel belaying 2nd pitch, first ascent

In Memoriam 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  MT : Blodgett Canyon : Shoshone Spire
In Memoriam climbs a prominent line up the center of Shoshone's Upper Buttress. Going years without seeing many climbers, a recent increase in ascents has cleaned this quality route up and further ascents will help make this route classic. Enjoy climbing the awesome handcrack on the second pitch's "Red Sickle" and also the clean slab climbing on the first pitch. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Montana Slideshow Add Photo
granite arch
granite arch
cali ice
cali ice
I told you there was rock to climb in Montana!
I told you there was rock to climb in Montana!
Lake Koocanusa from the crags
Lake Koocanusa from the crags
Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!
Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!
Somewhere near Townsend, MT. Nice limestone on a 2...
Somewhere near Townsend, MT. Nice limestone on a 2...
Stryker climbing.  mosquitoes in the shade.
Stryker climbing. mosquitoes in the shade.
An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula
An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula
Rocky Mountain Beer. A relic from the 1940s.
Rocky Mountain Beer. A relic from the 1940s.
the bear's face?
the bear's face?
A fine summer day in the Treasure State.  June 10,...
A fine summer day in the Treasure State. June 10,...
climbers on spare rib (5.8)
climbers on spare rib (5.8)
The slipper
The slipper
hyalite. another great example of the big-deal cli...
hyalite. another great example of the big-deal cli...
feelin small amongst big terrain on big timber pea...
feelin small amongst big terrain on big timber pea...
Going-to-the-Sun Highway, Glacier National Park
Going-to-the-Sun Highway, Glacier National Park
sent!
BETA PHOTO: sent!
Glacier National Park.
Glacier National Park.
mt cowen. the northeast arete is visible on the le...
mt cowen. the northeast arete is visible on the le...
behive peak
behive peak
The best place in the US
The best place in the US
Trevor Bowman on an ultra steep proj at whiskey gu...
Trevor Bowman on an ultra steep proj at whiskey gu...
The slipper
BETA PHOTO: The slipper
project in the works
BETA PHOTO: project in the works

Show All 25 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Montana Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2013
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Apr 5, 2007
Any one out there know of any climbing near the Great Falls area?
By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
Apr 12, 2007
There is no climbing in Montana. Go away.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 25, 2007
Why is it that folks are so sercretive about climbing in Montana, are there access issues, or do people just want it to stay low-key and uncrowded?
By Jon Runge
Jun 20, 2007
Ladd,
The latter. You can live in Montana for years and still not know all the climbing areas. But look at it this way--a lack of knowledge about a route maximizes your sense of adventure. A first ascent is only a state of mind. That said, plenty of MT guidebooks exist for those who want to maximize their route count.
By powerandrubber
Aug 27, 2007
Yes access issues. The montana climbing moffia kept Lost Horse secret, even from the forest service. Now it's slated to be quarried into chip seal. firstascentpress.com/losthorse... It's not so secret now!
By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 5, 2008
The climbing scene may be under the radar, but you just have to make friends with a couple of climbers (by supplying them with copious amounts of beer and meat, preferably Elk) and you'll easily get all the info you need.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 18, 2008
Chamika wrote:
Mount climbings can make more fitness for people,but in Montana it will nice to see people with mountain projects. Emma


All your base are belong to us?
By Charlie Perry
Aug 29, 2008
It is really strange how Montanans want to keep areas a secret. I lived in Bozeman for ten years and climb about everywhere in the guide books and other areas not in guide books. Compared to other destination areas in the USA I do not see the big deal. I have never found one specfic area in Montana that I would consider a "Destination Climbing area" such as Red Rocks, City of Rocks, the Sierras or the Rockies. Just a smattering of crags here and there with lots of road between them. There is climbing south of great falls in White Sulfur Springs. A hand full of routes on the Stone Temples. Hard to find, hard to get too unless you know the area or Ron Brunkhorst. However I would take Jons advice. Get a guide book and go if you are so inclined. However I live in Fort Collins and I would take Lumpy Ridge Climbing over anything in Montana. Super solid Granite, hundreds of routes, up to six pitches, beautiful abundant long splitters and very few people unless you are doing a hand full of classics. People do not seem to like climbing without bolts nor bolt stations that much. Or go do a wall in the backcountry of Rocky Mountain National Park. Some areas you would be lucky to find another party.
By Frank Hessler
From: Winona, MN
Jan 15, 2010
I know of a good place to climb just outside YNP called Mill Creek, there is descent climbing there with plenty of routes, I'm just a novice but my friends really enjoyed climbing there
By Josh Beasley
Jun 5, 2010
Is there much bouldering near bozeman. Or any good spots in the state?
By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Jun 7, 2010
Josh -
There's not much bouldering near Bozeman, but there's a lot starting about an hour from town. Yankee Jim Canyon has a bunch of stuff and there's a free guide that Bozeman locals Jeff Ho and Jeff Webber put together available online on my site: boulderingmontana.com The other large area is the massive boulder batholith between Whitehall and Butte. There's basically unlimited bouldering in the batholith, with Whiskey Gulch being the largest and oldest established area. Check out my site and Bouldering the Backwaters for more info, vids, photos, etc. Spire Climbing Center has a beta book as well that has info on some of the random boulders that are close to town.
By W.S.
From: Montana
Sep 19, 2010
Potential visitors to MT should be aware of the strict do-not-publish ethic that has prevailed here since the beginning of technical rock climbing. Internet info and to a lesser extent published guidebooks tend to be a poor representation of what's here. So make friends, buy beer, and explore!
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Sep 20, 2010
Um, all of the new routes I was a part of this year in montana WERE published, on this website, so this "no publish" ethic is not that strict. Both of the new SW Montana guides have published alpine zones in them. Its not a secret, its not crowded, and it is a big deal.
By essentialist2
Dec 26, 2010
Choss piles, that's all you find in Montana. Move along.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Dec 27, 2010
WS, I can't tell if you're tongue is in your cheek or not. The idea that Montanans all still adhere to the "do not publish" ethic you speak of is antiquated and not at all a good representation of most Montanans. Look at this year's AAJ for instance.
By Dan Bachen
Mar 31, 2011
Anyone have any beta on the long stuff up the trail in Kootenai Creek?
By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
Apr 19, 2011
i might have some info on the stuff up kootenai, depends on how far up you are talking about. which side of the creek?
By Dan Bachen
Apr 22, 2011
Was curious about the walls on the north side. There's a tower-like formation I hiked past beyond sick bay with bolts, kinda looked like an easter island statue. Also was interested in the big cliffs about a mile up (Chief Charlo?).
By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
May 6, 2011
Dan, I've heard about that stuff, but don't have any beta on it. Can't find anything so far, but i do know that there are some multipitch lines that go on that bigger wall, supposed to be fairly moderate.
By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
May 27, 2011
any decent sport cimbing near Great Falls?
Im going by myself for a 60 hour/week job, and would like to rope solo on my one day off per week. Or meet up with potential partners?

There must be a few gems in the area, if there are and you don't want to post it here you can email me at WhipperTherapy@hotmail.com. (as in climbing whippers, thanks) I am a respectful climber who does not have a blog, and I have no interest in blowing your spots out.

Thanks from seattle,

Frank
By Peter Arndt
Jul 4, 2011
ROCK ROUTES in the LITTLE BELTS?

Will be cruisin the King's Hwy in a couple weeks. Would appreciate Beta on specific areas and moderate routes (craggin)in the Little Belts. Guidbook? Thanx in advance.
By Hoez
From: Uganda
Nov 7, 2011
there has to be great climbing in montana... i lived in choteau for a year - where i was introduced to climbing - and there is an awesome crag around there.. lewis and clark national forest is also around there and the god damn rockies cruise straight through there.... I think montana is largely untapped - im thinking of spending a few weeks up there next summer and gonna try to find some more bouldering. It seems like the majority of montana climbers are very old school and mainly trad climbers - so the potential of coming across some gems and getting FA's sounds logical... I love boulder hunting. Will keep everyone posted...
By Ryan Day Thompson
From: Big Sky, Montana
Sep 3, 2012
The climbing sucks here.

Go to Boulder.
By Greg Corn
Feb 26, 2013
I climbed/cleaned a few dozen problems up in Blackleaf Canyon back in 2008, nothing online yet, so i guess I respect the no-publishing ethic?!
I find that kinda silly, so you want to keep everything to yourself, but feel cool with using guidebooks for red Rocks, California and gulp, Canada? Selfish?
One day I will put my Blackleaf info online and if you wanna say it's all been climbed you can explain the pre-climbed-choss-intact photos I have.
Love Montana and its climbing!!
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Aug 8, 2013
What is the closest free camping to Bozeman?