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Roaring Lion Canyon 
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Stone Hill 
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Tobacco Root Mountains 
Tor Rock 
Yankee Jim  

Montana 


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Administrators: grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: skitch on Jan 12, 2007

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Guidebooks (9)
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The Doublets during a midwinter storm.

Description 

A big state with lots of climbing.


Getting There 

Look on the map; it is near Idaho and Wyoming.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Montana:
Cleopatra's Needle   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Hyalite Canyon : Twin Falls Area
The Thrill is Gone   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 205 feet   Hyalite Canyon : The Unnamed Wall
Skyline Arete   5.6     Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Gallatin Canyon : Skyline Buttress
Sparerib   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 225 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area
Room with a view   5.8     Sport, 65 feet   Stone Hill : Room with a View
The Mutt and Jeff   5.8     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV   Humbug Spires
Shoshone South Face   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet   Blodgett Canyon : Shoshone Spire
Pineapple Thunderpussy   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Pineapple Buttress
Standard Route   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Room with a View (2)   5.10a     Sport, 65 feet   Stone Hill : Room with a View
First Best   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Tigger   5.10a/b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Black Line   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress
Theoretically   5.10+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock
Montana Centennial Route   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade IV   Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque
Timebinder   5.11b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   Blodgett Canyon : The Prow
Soft in the Middle   5.11c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Bowling for Buicks   5.12a     Sport, 80 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Dogleg Arete   5.12-     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Canine Cliffs
Der Fruh Lowe   5.13- R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Gallatin Canyon : Skyline Buttress
Browse More Classics in Montana


Featured Route For Montana
Geoff Heath 'casting' the rope on a windy day, high on Skyline.

Skyline Arete 5.6  MT : Gallatin Canyon : Skyline Buttress
Skyline Arete is the longest route in the canyon. Sitting high above the river, the route offers fun climbing at a modest grade with sweeping views from comfortable belays. All in all, it's an enjoyable day on good rock. There are many ways to break up the climb due to plentiful ledges, but basically parties follow the ridge crest, finding an interesting mix of climbing problems including chimneys, slim crests, face, and cracks, with many variations that offer harder climbing. One might choos...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT


Photos of Montana Slideshow Add Photo
Lake Koocanusa from the crags

Lake Koocanusa from the crags

Glacier National Park.

Glacier National Park.

granite arch

granite arch

Stryker climbing.  mosquitoes in the shade.

Stryker climbing. mosquitoes in the shade.

I told you there was rock to climb in Montana!

I told you there was rock to climb in Montana!

Somewhere near Townsend, MT. Nice limestone on a 20 degree November day.

Somewhere near Townsend, MT. Nice limestone on a 2...

A fine summer day in the Treasure State.  June 10, 2008 in Kalispell.

A fine summer day in the Treasure State. June 10,...

An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula

An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula

Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!

Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!

Going-to-the-Sun Highway, Glacier National Park

Going-to-the-Sun Highway, Glacier National Park

Rocky Mountain Beer. A relic from the 1940s.

Rocky Mountain Beer. A relic from the 1940s.

project in the works

BETA PHOTO: project in the works

sent!

BETA PHOTO: sent!

cali ice

cali ice

behive peak

behive peak

Trevor Bowman on an ultra steep proj at whiskey gulch

Trevor Bowman on an ultra steep proj at whiskey gu...

the bear's face?

the bear's face?

feelin small amongst big terrain on big timber peak, crazy woman mountians

feelin small amongst big terrain on big timber pea...

mt cowen. the northeast arete is visible on the left  <br />skyline.

mt cowen. the northeast arete is visible on the le...

hyalite. another great example of the big-deal climbing in montana. can you spot the climbers? <br />

hyalite. another great example of the big-deal cli...

The best place in the US

The best place in the US

climbers on spare rib (5.8)

climbers on spare rib (5.8)


Comments on Montana Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 26, 2013
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Apr 5, 2007

Any one out there know of any climbing near the Great Falls area?

By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
Apr 12, 2007

There is no climbing in Montana. Go away.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 25, 2007

Why is it that folks are so sercretive about climbing in Montana, are there access issues, or do people just want it to stay low-key and uncrowded?

By Jon Runge
Jun 20, 2007

Ladd,
The latter. You can live in Montana for years and still not know all the climbing areas. But look at it this way--a lack of knowledge about a route maximizes your sense of adventure. A first ascent is only a state of mind. That said, plenty of MT guidebooks exist for those who want to maximize their route count.

By powerandrubber
Aug 27, 2007

Yes access issues. The montana climbing moffia kept Lost Horse secret, even from the forest service. Now it's slated to be quarried into chip seal. firstascentpress.com/losthorse.html It's not so secret now!

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 5, 2008

The climbing scene may be under the radar, but you just have to make friends with a couple of climbers (by supplying them with copious amounts of beer and meat, preferably Elk) and you'll easily get all the info you need.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 18, 2008

Chamika wrote:
Mount climbings can make more fitness for people,but in Montana it will nice to see people with mountain projects. Emma


All your base are belong to us?

By Charlie Perry
From: Fort Collins
Aug 29, 2008

It is really strange how Montanans want to keep areas a secret. I lived in Bozeman for ten years and climb about everywhere in the guide books and other areas not in guide books. Compared to other destination areas in the USA I do not see the big deal. I have never found one specfic area in Montana that I would consider a "Destination Climbing area" such as Red Rocks, City of Rocks, the Sierras or the Rockies. Just a smattering of crags here and there with lots of road between them. There is climbing south of great falls in White Sulfur Springs. A hand full of routes on the Stone Temples. Hard to find, hard to get too unless you know the area or Ron Brunkhorst. However I would take Jons advice. Get a guide book and go if you are so inclined. However I live in Fort Collins and I would take Lumpy Ridge Climbing over anything in Montana. Super solid Granite, hundreds of routes, up to six pitches, beautiful abundant long splitters and very few people unless you are doing a hand full of classics. People do not seem to like climbing without bolts nor bolt stations that much. Or go do a wall in the backcountry of Rocky Mountain National Park. Some areas you would be lucky to find another party.

By Frank Hessler
From: Winona, MN
Jan 15, 2010

I know of a good place to climb just outside YNP called Mill Creek, there is descent climbing there with plenty of routes, I'm just a novice but my friends really enjoyed climbing there

By Josh Beasley
Jun 5, 2010

Is there much bouldering near bozeman. Or any good spots in the state?

By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Jun 7, 2010

Josh -
There's not much bouldering near Bozeman, but there's a lot starting about an hour from town. Yankee Jim Canyon has a bunch of stuff and there's a free guide that Bozeman locals Jeff Ho and Jeff Webber put together available online on my site: boulderingmontana.com The other large area is the massive boulder batholith between Whitehall and Butte. There's basically unlimited bouldering in the batholith, with Whiskey Gulch being the largest and oldest established area. Check out my site and Bouldering the Backwaters for more info, vids, photos, etc. Spire Climbing Center has a beta book as well that has info on some of the random boulders that are close to town.

By W.S.
From: Montana
Sep 19, 2010

Potential visitors to MT should be aware of the strict do-not-publish ethic that has prevailed here since the beginning of technical rock climbing. Internet info and to a lesser extent published guidebooks tend to be a poor representation of what's here. So make friends, buy beer, and explore!

By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Sep 20, 2010

Um, all of the new routes I was a part of this year in montana WERE published, on this website, so this "no publish" ethic is not that strict. Both of the new SW Montana guides have published alpine zones in them. Its not a secret, its not crowded, and it is a big deal.

By essentialist2
Dec 26, 2010

Choss piles, that's all you find in Montana. Move along.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 27, 2010

WS, I can't tell if you're tongue is in your cheek or not. The idea that Montanans all still adhere to the "do not publish" ethic you speak of is antiquated and not at all a good representation of most Montanans. Look at this year's AAJ for instance.

By Dan Bachen
Mar 31, 2011

Anyone have any beta on the long stuff up the trail in Kootenai Creek?

By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
Apr 19, 2011

i might have some info on the stuff up kootenai, depends on how far up you are talking about. which side of the creek?

By Dan Bachen
Apr 22, 2011

Was curious about the walls on the north side. There's a tower-like formation I hiked past beyond sick bay with bolts, kinda looked like an easter island statue. Also was interested in the big cliffs about a mile up (Chief Charlo?).

By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
May 6, 2011

Dan, I've heard about that stuff, but don't have any beta on it. Can't find anything so far, but i do know that there are some multipitch lines that go on that bigger wall, supposed to be fairly moderate.

By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
May 27, 2011

any decent sport cimbing near Great Falls?
Im going by myself for a 60 hour/week job, and would like to rope solo on my one day off per week. Or meet up with potential partners?

There must be a few gems in the area, if there are and you don't want to post it here you can email me at WhipperTherapy@hotmail.com. (as in climbing whippers, thanks) I am a respectful climber who does not have a blog, and I have no interest in blowing your spots out.

Thanks from seattle,

Frank

By Dan Bachen
May 31, 2011

I think the climbing up there is minimal but I have done some rope-soloing at sheep mountain and blue cloud down by Helena. Both areas are about an hour south and worth the drive

By Peter Arndt
From: Baraboo, WI
Jul 4, 2011

ROCK ROUTES in the LITTLE BELTS?

Will be cruisin the King's Hwy in a couple weeks. Would appreciate Beta on specific areas and moderate routes (craggin)in the Little Belts. Guidbook? Thanx in advance.

By Hoez
From: Uganda
Nov 7, 2011

there has to be great climbing in montana... i lived in choteau for a year - where i was introduced to climbing - and there is an awesome crag around there.. lewis and clark national forest is also around there and the god damn rockies cruise straight through there.... I think montana is largely untapped - im thinking of spending a few weeks up there next summer and gonna try to find some more bouldering. It seems like the majority of montana climbers are very old school and mainly trad climbers - so the potential of coming across some gems and getting FA's sounds logical... I love boulder hunting. Will keep everyone posted...

By Ryan M
Jan 22, 2012

Any good climbing near Missoula? I'm not asking for directions to your "secret spot" just a general feel about potential and established areas... Trad, sport, pebble wrestling, whatever. Please let me know!

By C. G.
Mar 19, 2012

I'm looking for a serious climbing partner in the Bozeman area. I recently moved here and don't know anyone in town. I don't have a job, as my main priority is climbing everyday. I am comfortable leading trad at 5.9, sport at 5.10s, and will follow anything you lead. I don't really drink or do drugs, and would prefer a partner who thinks the same way, but really I'm just looking for someone to get on rock with, even if its only a couple days a week. I like free camping, trying really hard, having a good time, and developing quality routes. Give a shout if you want to climb with a no-bullshit michigan kid.

By Ryan Day Thompson
From: Denver, CO
Sep 3, 2012

The climbing sucks here.

Go to Boulder.

By Greg Corn
Feb 26, 2013

I climbed/cleaned a few dozen problems up in Blackleaf Canyon back in 2008, nothing online yet, so i guess I respect the no-publishing ethic?!
I find that kinda silly, so you want to keep everything to yourself, but feel cool with using guidebooks for red Rocks, California and gulp, Canada? Selfish?
One day I will put my Blackleaf info online and if you wanna say it's all been climbed you can explain the pre-climbed-choss-intact photos I have.
Love Montana and its climbing!!