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Montana
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Yankee Jim  

Montana 


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Location: 46.85073, -114.01914 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 741,662
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: GhaMby on Jan 12, 2007
You & This Area
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The Doublets during a midwinter storm.

Description 

A big state with lots of climbing.


Getting There 

Look on the map; it is near Idaho and Wyoming.


838 Total Routes


['4 Stars',105],['3 Stars',312],['2 Stars',248],['1 Star',109],['Bomb',17]
['<=5.6',33],['5.7',37],['5.8',73],['5.9',111],['5.10',225],['5.11',169],['5.12',86],['5.13',19],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',18],['V4-5',9],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Montana:
Winter Dance   WI5-6 M8     Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 450'   Hyalite Canyon : Winter Dance Area
The Thrill is Gone   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 205'   Hyalite Canyon : The Unnamed Wall
Cleopatra's Needle   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 250'   Hyalite Canyon : Twin Falls Area
The Scepter   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Hyalite Canyon : Mummy Area
Skyline Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Gallatin Canyon : Skyline Buttress
Southwest Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   Humbug Spires
The Mutt and Jeff   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Humbug Spires
Sparerib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area
Diesel Driver   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress
Standard Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Shoshone South Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Blodgett Canyon : Shoshone Spire
Pineapple Thunderpussy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Gallatin Canyon : Pineapple Buttress
Tigger   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Flake Fest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Black Line   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress
Theoretically   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock
My Moms Muscle Shirt   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Blodgett Canyon : Flathead Buttress
Montana Centennial Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1600'   Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque
Timebinder   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Blodgett Canyon : The Prow
Bowling for Buicks   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower
Browse More Classics in Montana

Featured Route For Montana
Pitch 3- full value 5.8

Watchtower Standard Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MT : Gallatin Canyon : The Watchtower - First Tier
Between Dog Buttress and The Joker you'll find a solid flat spot to belay this route (all these routes are right of Mother's Day). The first pitch doesn't look like much, and in fact is dirty and the solid pro opportunities are limited. Eyeball this first pitch closely to see if you're comfortable leading with minimal pro (probably goes at 5.6 depending on how creative you are with routefinding).If you do, you'll be rewarded with the excellent final two pitches:P2 has the crux - a thoughtful s...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Montana Slideshow Add Photo
granite arch
granite arch
Stryker climbing.  mosquitoes in the shade.
Stryker climbing. mosquitoes in the shade.
Somewhere near Townsend, MT. Nice limestone on a 20 degree November day.
Somewhere near Townsend, MT. Nice limestone on a 2...
Lake Koocanusa from the crags
Lake Koocanusa from the crags
I told you there was rock to climb in Montana!
I told you there was rock to climb in Montana!
Rocky Mountain Beer. A relic from the 1940s.
Rocky Mountain Beer. A relic from the 1940s.
Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!
Another example of the lousy climbing in Montana!
An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula
An interesting long route we climbed near Missoula
cali ice
cali ice
the bear's face?
the bear's face?
A fine summer day in the Treasure State.  June 10, 2008 in Kalispell.
A fine summer day in the Treasure State. June 10,...
project in the works
BETA PHOTO: project in the works
sent!
BETA PHOTO: sent!
Glacier National Park.
Glacier National Park.
mt cowen. the northeast arete is visible on the left  <br />skyline.
mt cowen. the northeast arete is visible on the le...
Going-to-the-Sun Highway, Glacier National Park
Going-to-the-Sun Highway, Glacier National Park
The best place in the US
The best place in the US
feelin small amongst big terrain on big timber peak, crazy woman mountians
feelin small amongst big terrain on big timber pea...
behive peak
behive peak
hyalite. another great example of the big-deal climbing in montana. can you spot the climbers? <br />
hyalite. another great example of the big-deal cli...
Trevor Bowman on an ultra steep proj at whiskey gulch
Trevor Bowman on an ultra steep proj at whiskey gu...
climbers on spare rib (5.8)
climbers on spare rib (5.8)
Comments on Montana Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2013
By Matt Nelson
From: Divide, CO
Apr 5, 2007

Any one out there know of any climbing near the Great Falls area?

By Ryan Bibler
From: MT
Apr 12, 2007

There is no climbing in Montana. Go away.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 25, 2007

Why is it that folks are so sercretive about climbing in Montana, are there access issues, or do people just want it to stay low-key and uncrowded?

By Jon Runge
Jun 20, 2007

Ladd,
The latter. You can live in Montana for years and still not know all the climbing areas. But look at it this way--a lack of knowledge about a route maximizes your sense of adventure. A first ascent is only a state of mind. That said, plenty of MT guidebooks exist for those who want to maximize their route count.

By powerandrubber
Aug 27, 2007

Yes access issues. The montana climbing moffia kept Lost Horse secret, even from the forest service. Now it's slated to be quarried into chip seal. firstascentpress.com/losthorse.html It's not so secret now!

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 5, 2008

The climbing scene may be under the radar, but you just have to make friends with a couple of climbers (by supplying them with copious amounts of beer and meat, preferably Elk) and you'll easily get all the info you need.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 18, 2008

Chamika wrote:
Mount climbings can make more fitness for people,but in Montana it will nice to see people with mountain projects. Emma


All your base are belong to us?

By Charlie Perry
Aug 29, 2008

It is really strange how Montanans want to keep areas a secret. I lived in Bozeman for ten years and climb about everywhere in the guide books and other areas not in guide books. Compared to other destination areas in the USA I do not see the big deal. I have never found one specfic area in Montana that I would consider a "Destination Climbing area" such as Red Rocks, City of Rocks, the Sierras or the Rockies. Just a smattering of crags here and there with lots of road between them. There is climbing south of great falls in White Sulfur Springs. A hand full of routes on the Stone Temples. Hard to find, hard to get too unless you know the area or Ron Brunkhorst. However I would take Jons advice. Get a guide book and go if you are so inclined. However I live in Fort Collins and I would take Lumpy Ridge Climbing over anything in Montana. Super solid Granite, hundreds of routes, up to six pitches, beautiful abundant long splitters and very few people unless you are doing a hand full of classics. People do not seem to like climbing without bolts nor bolt stations that much. Or go do a wall in the backcountry of Rocky Mountain National Park. Some areas you would be lucky to find another party.

By Frank Hessler
From: Winona, MN
Jan 15, 2010

I know of a good place to climb just outside YNP called Mill Creek, there is descent climbing there with plenty of routes, I'm just a novice but my friends really enjoyed climbing there

By Josh Beasley
Jun 5, 2010

Is there much bouldering near bozeman. Or any good spots in the state?

By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Jun 7, 2010

Josh -
There's not much bouldering near Bozeman, but there's a lot starting about an hour from town. Yankee Jim Canyon has a bunch of stuff and there's a free guide that Bozeman locals Jeff Ho and Jeff Webber put together available online on my site: boulderingmontana.com The other large area is the massive boulder batholith between Whitehall and Butte. There's basically unlimited bouldering in the batholith, with Whiskey Gulch being the largest and oldest established area. Check out my site and Bouldering the Backwaters for more info, vids, photos, etc. Spire Climbing Center has a beta book as well that has info on some of the random boulders that are close to town.

By W.S.
From: Montana
Sep 19, 2010

Potential visitors to MT should be aware of the strict do-not-publish ethic that has prevailed here since the beginning of technical rock climbing. Internet info and to a lesser extent published guidebooks tend to be a poor representation of what's here. So make friends, buy beer, and explore!

By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Sep 20, 2010

Um, all of the new routes I was a part of this year in montana WERE published, on this website, so this "no publish" ethic is not that strict. Both of the new SW Montana guides have published alpine zones in them. Its not a secret, its not crowded, and it is a big deal.

By essentialist2
Dec 26, 2010

Choss piles, that's all you find in Montana. Move along.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 27, 2010

WS, I can't tell if you're tongue is in your cheek or not. The idea that Montanans all still adhere to the "do not publish" ethic you speak of is antiquated and not at all a good representation of most Montanans. Look at this year's AAJ for instance.

By Dan Bachen
Mar 31, 2011

Anyone have any beta on the long stuff up the trail in Kootenai Creek?

By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
Apr 19, 2011

i might have some info on the stuff up kootenai, depends on how far up you are talking about. which side of the creek?

By Dan Bachen
Apr 22, 2011

Was curious about the walls on the north side. There's a tower-like formation I hiked past beyond sick bay with bolts, kinda looked like an easter island statue. Also was interested in the big cliffs about a mile up (Chief Charlo?).

By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
May 6, 2011

Dan, I've heard about that stuff, but don't have any beta on it. Can't find anything so far, but i do know that there are some multipitch lines that go on that bigger wall, supposed to be fairly moderate.

By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
May 27, 2011

any decent sport cimbing near Great Falls?
Im going by myself for a 60 hour/week job, and would like to rope solo on my one day off per week. Or meet up with potential partners?

There must be a few gems in the area, if there are and you don't want to post it here you can email me at WhipperTherapy@hotmail.com. (as in climbing whippers, thanks) I am a respectful climber who does not have a blog, and I have no interest in blowing your spots out.

Thanks from seattle,

Frank

By Peter Arndt
Jul 4, 2011

ROCK ROUTES in the LITTLE BELTS?

Will be cruisin the King's Hwy in a couple weeks. Would appreciate Beta on specific areas and moderate routes (craggin)in the Little Belts. Guidbook? Thanx in advance.

By Hoez
From: Uganda
Nov 7, 2011

there has to be great climbing in montana... i lived in choteau for a year - where i was introduced to climbing - and there is an awesome crag around there.. lewis and clark national forest is also around there and the god damn rockies cruise straight through there.... I think montana is largely untapped - im thinking of spending a few weeks up there next summer and gonna try to find some more bouldering. It seems like the majority of montana climbers are very old school and mainly trad climbers - so the potential of coming across some gems and getting FA's sounds logical... I love boulder hunting. Will keep everyone posted...

By Ryan M
Jan 22, 2012

Any good climbing near Missoula? I'm not asking for directions to your "secret spot" just a general feel about potential and established areas... Trad, sport, pebble wrestling, whatever. Please let me know!

By Ryan Day Thompson
From: Big Sky, Montana
Sep 3, 2012

The climbing sucks here.

Go to Boulder.

By Greg Corn
Feb 26, 2013

I climbed/cleaned a few dozen problems up in Blackleaf Canyon back in 2008, nothing online yet, so i guess I respect the no-publishing ethic?!
I find that kinda silly, so you want to keep everything to yourself, but feel cool with using guidebooks for red Rocks, California and gulp, Canada? Selfish?
One day I will put my Blackleaf info online and if you wanna say it's all been climbed you can explain the pre-climbed-choss-intact photos I have.
Love Montana and its climbing!!

By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Aug 8, 2013

What is the closest free camping to Bozeman?