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Montana Gangster 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Neil Kauffman, Joel Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/26/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The route with the upper corner foreshortened.

Description 

An unusual Creek outing demanding a variety of techniques. Start with a short fingers corner, pull onto a shelf, face climb up some dubious soft rock, grapple out a strenuous, bulging slot, and jam up the nicely varnished upper corner with sustained ringlocks and tight hands, stemming on the occasional face features. Shelf belay stance.

The lower section was cleaned/trundled a good bit after the lead, but still needs some love. It's a softer band that will never be great, but should be safer now at least. Some traffic cleaning will certainly help. The upper corner is quite nice, and worth the lower choss wrangling IMO.

Location 

On the far right side of the cliff, 50' right of Twitch. Plaque at base.

Protection 

(1).3 .4 .5, (3).75, (3)#1, (2) #2, (1)#3 Camalots, Med stoppers for lower face, slings. Chain anchors.


Photos of Montana Gangster Slideshow Add Photo
A closer shot of the lower bit...not the better half!
A closer shot of the lower bit...not the better ha...

Comments on Montana Gangster Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Oct 31, 2011

clever name, i like it!
By 303scott
Mar 10, 2014

While the upper section looks enticing, I bailed on this route after a few footholds crumbled in the rotten section. Gear in that area is suspect too as you can't tell if you are placing it in rock or just really hard dirt...I would avoid unless/until it cleans up significantly.