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Routes in North Cliffband
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Back to Montana S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cochiti Classic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cochiti Ugly T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Empty and Meaningless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Feminist Men S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grunge Up the Munge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gunning for the Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Holy Wars S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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La Espina S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Laurel's Ledges S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monkey Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Montana Deviate T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Napoleon Blown-Apart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pickpocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Praise the Lunge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Thief Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thief in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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To Catch A Thief S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Touch Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown - Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Doug Couleur, Lee Sheftel |
| Page Views: | 628 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on May 31, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
~~Looks to have lost some skin since the 2011 fire: Not sure how accurate this description below is~~
Pre fire description:
There's some ambiguity about this climb; 5.9 leaders beware.
All 3 guidebooks show this as a 2-bolt variation to Holy Wars (5.11a), angling right after the 3rd bolt. However, most figure the crux of Holy Wars is probably the sequency moves on pockets on a slightly overhanging face before the first 2 bolts, which would be shared with Mont. Deviate, which calls into question the 5.9+ rating. However, the text description in Rock Climbing: New Mexico, but not the topo, says "to climb a crack, then pass a diagonal crack, then past 2 bolts", which would avoid the Holy Wars crux by climbing an independent start to the right, which might keep it at 5.9.
In either case, the upper section of this climb is steep, uncharacteristically textured & featured with knobs, and a better-protected but less aesthetic option than the upper part of Holy Wars. Angle left at the top to reach the Holy Wars anchor, which may be inconvenient for those following or toproping.
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