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Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route
Mod. Snow
Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
Type: | Snow, Alpine, 2300 ft (697 m), Grade II |
FA: | Hudson, Kennedy and guides August 8, 1855 |
Page Views: | 2,752 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Rui Ferreira on Aug 9, 2015 |
Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre |
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Description
This is the most accessible 4000 meter summit to climb in the Mont Blanc range, but should not be taken lightly as the lower slopes have been the scene of many accidents and fatalities due to serac falls and avalanches. From Col du Midi ascend the lower NW slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul (35 to 40 degrees snow). Cross the bergschrund at its easiest point and go up trending diagonally right to the shoulder. Navigate the crevasses and seracs to reach the shoulder/plateau (at 4120m). Do not linger through this section due to the obvious serac danger. Once the shoulder/plateau is reached turn left (south) towards the summit hidden behind a small rock outcrop. Go around the left side of the rock outcrop and up to the summit. Total time to climb is 3 to 4 hours. From the plateau to the summit is 30 minutes. Reverse the route to descend to the glacier below.
This is a good dry run for those looking to do the Trois Monts route to the summit of Mont Blanc, as the Tacul section of that route is typically done in the dark.
Another reason to do this climb is that once you have done it you will not be tempted to summit again when doing other more challenging routes on Mont Blanc du Tacul that are equipped with rappel descents
This is a good dry run for those looking to do the Trois Monts route to the summit of Mont Blanc, as the Tacul section of that route is typically done in the dark.
Another reason to do this climb is that once you have done it you will not be tempted to summit again when doing other more challenging routes on Mont Blanc du Tacul that are equipped with rappel descents
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