Monsters is known for it's hard steep routes with a bouldery nature. However, there are some fun but slightly less-classic, less-steep 11s and 12s on the left hand side of the crag.
This is a great place to climb hard on cold winter days. The southern exposure can make the crag nice and warm as long as the sun is out. It also is nice on a summer morning, since it stays in the shade for a while. The only real issue here is the seepage which can shut down many routes in the spring.
Classics include Heaven (5.11a), Journey to a Mushroom Planet (5.13a), and Parallel Universe (5.14a) and a host of other awesome hard routes.
Some interesting link ups: Freezer Burn (5.13c) Starts on The Boogieman and traverses right, under the roof, to finish all the way over on Journey to a Mushroom Planet. I've also seen this called Bird Incubator
No Shit (5.13b/c) Starts on The Boogieman and finish up Parallel Universe
Steady Slobbin' (5.14b) Starts up Parallel Universe and finishes up The Boogieman's arete.
All Day Slacker (5.14b) Start up Parallel Universe and traverse to Journey to a Mushroom Planet's anchor after the 4th bolt.
Follow the Short Cut Trail up the staircase and across the hillside above 5.8 crag. Once you reach the point where the trail swings up the hill towards Bonsai then traverses right again, follow that over the top of Monsters like you were heading towards Darth Vadar Junction, but before you get to the junction drop down the little trail breaking left to the right side of Monsters.
Alternatively, continue traversing the hillside at the lower level on the trail that goes under Monsters towards the Black Jack boulders. When you reach the first boulder grouping you are right below Monsters ( look for a highball arete). Scramble up through the boulders 100 feet to the crag.
Just right of Heaven and left of Mushroom Planet is a quartzy crack/feature that marks the start of a hard (V9/10) boulder problem. This leads to a roof and arete (kneebar useful) and the finish.I belayed Ward on this way back. An amazing looking climb--power, continuity, and a good line....[more]Browse More Classics in NH
In 1981, Ted Hammond and I climbed the two best crack lines on trad gear while it was raining, simultaneously with different belay partners. His was the 'Journey to the mushroom planet' and mine was further to the right. We rated them both (A2).
So is the intention to continue to take down all gear that has been there for more than 14 days? When is all of Waimea coming down? Also, where can people retrieve their gear after it has been stolen and then regarded as "trash?"
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jul 17, 2013
Nobody is intending to steal your gear, Bucko. Get with the program. The RCA is attempting to balance the needs of climbers with the rules and wishes of the Forest Service as well as eliminate unsafe gear as much as possible. Most of the draws removed were old worn out crap with stiff bleached draws, worn biners and gates that wouldn't close. The one set of new and good condition draws were returned when the placer was known. The people working on cleanups are all volunteer, so though attempts may be made to give notice when particular crags will get cleaned if possible, so people can recover their draws beforehand, they have to work around their often spur of the moment opportunities and can't be expected to hunt down every previous owner of every Forest Service defined abandoned draw. You can contact the RCA directly if you have concerns (better yet if you want to help), or the Forest Service if you don't like their policies. All the climbers who have spoken to me at the crag about it have been glad the crag was cleaned up and had anchors upgraded. If you are worried about having gear you left eventually cleaned off, then don't leave it.
I came across an old video of a Rumney route I hadn't heard of - All Day Slacker. I'm indifferent on whether the various link-ups deserve a separate route listing but I think they should probably get listed on the front page. I'm sure this list isn't exhaustive but this is what I'm aware of (descriptions stolen from other route pages):