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Monsters from the Id

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abominable Snowman S 
Boogieman , The S 
Cosmic Monsters S 
Doctor No S 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Heaven S 
Heavenly Monsters S 
Journey to a Mushroom Planet T,S 
Little Demon S 
Monster Crossing S 
Parallel Universe S 
Source of Madness S 
Stone Monkey S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
White Zombie S 

Monsters from the Id  


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Page Views: 37,178
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 28, 2007
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Description 

Monsters is known for it's hard steep routes with a bouldery nature. However, there are some fun but slightly less-classic, less-steep 11s and 12s on the left hand side of the crag.

This is a great place to climb hard on cold winter days. The southern exposure can make the crag nice and warm as long as the sun is out. It also is nice on a summer morning, since it stays in the shade for a while. The only real issue here is the seepage which can shut down many routes in the spring.

Classics include Heaven (5.11a), Journey to a Mushroom Planet (5.13a), and Parallel Universe (5.14a) and a host of other awesome hard routes.

Some interesting link ups:
Freezer Burn (5.13c)
Starts on The Boogieman and traverses right, under the roof, to finish all the way over on Journey to a Mushroom Planet. I've also seen this called Bird Incubator

No Shit (5.13b/c)
Starts on The Boogieman and finish up Parallel Universe

Steady Slobbin' (5.14b)
Starts up Parallel Universe and finishes up The Boogieman's arete.

All Day Slacker (5.14b)
Start up Parallel Universe and traverse to Journey to a Mushroom Planet's anchor after the 4th bolt.

Getting There 

Follow the Short Cut Trail up the staircase and across the hillside above 5.8 crag. Once you reach the point where the trail swings up the hill towards Bonsai then traverses right again, follow that over the top of Monsters like you were heading towards Darth Vadar Junction, but before you get to the junction drop down the little trail breaking left to the right side of Monsters.

Alternatively, continue traversing the hillside at the lower level on the trail that goes under Monsters towards the Black Jack boulders. When you reach the first boulder grouping you are right below Monsters ( look for a highball arete). Scramble up through the boulders 100 feet to the crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Monsters from the Id:
Heaven   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Heavenly Monsters   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
White Zombie   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   
Journey to a Mushroom Planet   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Stone Monkey   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 25'   
Feeding Frenzy   5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a     Sport   
Parallel Universe   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Monsters from the Id

Featured Route For Monsters from the Id
Dave A. on the send!

White Zombie 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id
Most people avoid this route like the plague, but it's actually really a fun route (and it's never crowded). Climb out the near horizontal v-shaped chimney with great effort. There are some jams, fingerlocks, and fist stacks in the back, but for the most part it's a thrash, smearing and contorting yourself in hopes of staying wedged in there somehow. I've wondered a couple times if it might be marginally safer to lead it on gear - there are obvious placements, way in the back of the crack, while...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Monsters from the Id Slideshow Add Photo
Jason enjoying beautiful fall conditions as he get...
Jason enjoying beautiful fall conditions as he get...
Neil getting into the goldfish hold on Steady Slob...
Neil getting into the goldfish hold on Steady Slob...
A good shot of the harder end of the cliff
A good shot of the harder end of the cliff
Jay Conway on Boogeyman.
Jay Conway on Boogeyman.
Monsters map... i left out Boogie Man 5.13b cause ...
BETA PHOTO: Monsters map... i left out Boogie Man 5.13b cause ...
Monsters, far right routes... I think Triskaidekap...
BETA PHOTO: Monsters, far right routes... I think Triskaidekap...
The "moderate routes" on the left end of...
BETA PHOTO: The "moderate routes" on the left end of...
Both of these routes and the link up are really fu...
BETA PHOTO: Both of these routes and the link up are really fu...
Rocking the woman's yoga pants on Feeding Frenzy
Rocking the woman's yoga pants on Feeding Frenzy
Feeding Frenzy and white zombie...
BETA PHOTO: Feeding Frenzy and white zombie...

Comments on Monsters from the Id Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 16, 2014
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 14, 2009
what is the route that is directly left of heaven? i always see draws on it but i dont know what it is?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 14, 2009
the route left of heaven is cosmic monsters... you should do it, its very fun :)
Im practicing the computor geek skills jeff taught me :)
Both of these routes and the link up are really fu...
Both of these routes and the link up are really fun...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 16, 2009
i was wondering about tryskadecaphobia (sp?) anybody done it that could put up a bomber description? maybe a photo or two? :) :)
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 22, 2010
The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 12, 2010
In 1981, Ted Hammond and I climbed the two best crack lines on trad gear while it was raining, simultaneously with different belay partners. His was the 'Journey to the mushroom planet' and mine was further to the right. We rated them both (A2).
By Aaron nietzel
Jul 16, 2013
So is the intention to continue to take down all gear that has been there for more than 14 days? When is all of Waimea coming down? Also, where can people retrieve their gear after it has been stolen and then regarded as "trash?"
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 17, 2013
Nobody is intending to steal your gear, Bucko. Get with the program. The RCA is attempting to balance the needs of climbers with the rules and wishes of the Forest Service as well as eliminate unsafe gear as much as possible. Most of the draws removed were old worn out crap with stiff bleached draws, worn biners and gates that wouldn't close. The one set of new and good condition draws were returned when the placer was known. The people working on cleanups are all volunteer, so though attempts may be made to give notice when particular crags will get cleaned if possible, so people can recover their draws beforehand, they have to work around their often spur of the moment opportunities and can't be expected to hunt down every previous owner of every Forest Service defined abandoned draw. You can contact the RCA directly if you have concerns (better yet if you want to help), or the Forest Service if you don't like their policies. All the climbers who have spoken to me at the crag about it have been glad the crag was cleaned up and had anchors upgraded. If you are worried about having gear you left eventually cleaned off, then don't leave it.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 16, 2014
I came across an old video of a Rumney route I hadn't heard of - All Day Slacker. I'm indifferent on whether the various link-ups deserve a separate route listing but I think they should probably get listed on the front page. I'm sure this list isn't exhaustive but this is what I'm aware of (descriptions stolen from other route pages):

Freezer Burn (5.13c)
Starts on The Boogieman and traverses right, under the roof, to finish all the way over on Journey to a Mushroom Planet. I've also seen this called Bird Incubator

No Shit (5.13b/c)
Starts on The Boogieman and finish up Parallel Universe

Steady Slobbin' (5.14b)
Starts up Parallel Universe and finishes up The Boogieman's arete.

(yeaaaaa System of a Down, lol)


All Day Slacker (5.14b)
Start up Parallel Universe and traverse to Journey to a Mushroom Planet's anchor after the 4th bolt.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 16, 2014
good call jeff... i tossed them in to the area description :)
and fun videos...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 16, 2014
Nice ascent, but why did they title it "on sight"? Hadn't Joe been all over that rock while he worked out Parallel and Mushroom?