Monster 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Jason Huston and Dylan Johnson (11/06) |
| Submitted By: | Peter Franzen on Oct 13, 2009 |
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Thad Arnold wrestles with a Monster. Photo by Mat...
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SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>
SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! The golden eagle nesting season is underway and the closure begins tomorrow, 1/15/2013. Last year, climbers demonstrated a 100% compliance rate with the voluntary test closure, and we need to make sure to repeat that showing. Unlike last year, this is a mandatory, not voluntary closure for all users including climbers and hikers. This means the BLM will be monitoring the territory and has the power to issue tickets for entering the closure area, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The soonest the closure could be partially lifted is May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios at that time. Please spread the word, climb elsewhere until further notice!
NO TOP ACCESS - PRIVATE LAND
Taken verbatim from a post by Jeff Wenger on the topic: "The climbing and part of the approach at Trout Creek sit on a fuzzy boundary of BLM and private land. The land on the mesa above the columns is part of a huge piece of property owned by the original settlers of Gateway, the Vibbert family. It is used to graze cattle and for several months every year as a pay-to-play bird hunting “preserve”. The property also contains an old homestead, a large productive farm, ponds, creeks, 4x4 roads, and an amazing solitary gravesite on the canyon rim between the crag and the campground. What we have here is an old sprawling property with several spotty boundaries on its BLM borders. The family had some BIG reservations about people being up there, mostly because they assumed climbers would want to cross their property and of course they had concerns about liability.
Why have things changed?
By NOT attempting to access the crag over private property, we’ve built trust with the before-weary Vibberts. They feel much better about us being in the area (and that REALLY matters in this case) compared to their initial, understandable reservations. So long as we continue to respect their land by NOT using it to access the cliff, more climbers shouldn’t be a big deal…and more climbers is what posting will bring.
I had the recent opportunity to meet with the guy who manages the hunting preserve for the Vibberts. He mentioned that he checks-in on the crag (what the family calls ‘dry island’) and has been very impressed with the fact that people have been respectful of the land. The Vibbert family loves the area and appreciates the fact others do too (even if the climbing is abrasive and physical!!). They’re thankful we take the time to walk in from the campground and that we encourage others to only access the climbing from below (I.E. lead rather than walk around to TR/rap ). Since neither the county nor the Vibberts are 100% clear on the boundary lines with the BLM and since they once owned all of what is now Gateway, the positive relations we have established are key for long-term access."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Monster starts as a tricky tips crack that gradually opens up to fingers and hands.
The technical crux comes fairly low, but after a couple of decent rests in the middle you'll still find yourself looking at a good deal of ever-widening hands before you reach the chains.
The opening sequences can be made significantly easier if you cheat a bit by laybacking and using the next crack over to the left, but if you're a purist try going straight in.
This is an incredibly fun route.
Location Just to the right of JR Tolkein. Start on the block and climb the chalked tip jams on your right.
Protection Small gear (tips) to large hands.
By Max Tepfer
From: Central Oregon
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.11+
| The consensus on the grade of this route from many who climb at the crag regularly as well as some very talented visiors is that it's more of a 12-. In either case, come expecting thin locks, bad feet, and difficulties seeing the next good lock right off the deck. |
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 4, 2009
| Well that makes me feel a little bit better about my effort. I thought that the opening moves were pretty burly for an 11. |
By Max Tepfer
From: Central Oregon
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11+
| So, despite my comment above, I (and a few others) now feel slightly differently about the grade. Shortly after the consensus bumped it up to 12-, new beta came to light and now I'm skeptical of whether or not the rating is consistent with other routes of the grade at the crag. In any case, know that if you figure out the easy beta, it's going to be a very quick tick for Trout 12-. |
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