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Monster Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bandersnatch 
Caliban 
Cerberus 
Chupacabra 
Cookie Monster 
Cyclops 
Godzilla Meets Bambi 
Grendal 
Hippalectryon 
Jeckyll and Hyde 
Kraken 
Mighty Mouse 
Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.) 
Monster Slayer 
Ogopogo 
Pegasus 
Predator  
Scream Queen 
Scuttlebutt 
Stay Puft 
Swamp Thing 
Werepig 

Monster Wall 


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Lat, Long: 35.8202, -106.5173 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009
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Rick Bradshaw on the Werepig roof.

Description 

The Monster Wall proper is steep, with some good harder routes.

The climbs are numbered from right to left, to coincide with the Monster Wall beta drawing (with climbs #1&2 being on The Bull Horn - the buttress immediately right of Monster Wall)


Getting There 

This wall is about hundred yards downstream from where the trail hits the river.


22 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',7],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Monster Wall:
Cookie Monster   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Ogopogo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Mighty Mouse   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Werepig   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cyclops   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pegasus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cerberus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Predator    5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chupacabra   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Godzilla Meets Bambi   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Monster Slayer   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mike Wazowski (of Monsters Inc.)   5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Monster Wall

Featured Route For Monster Wall
Shibs cruising Revenge of The Werepig, making look easier than it is, as usual.

Werepig 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Monster Wall
Intricate side to side climbing with a fun crux at the roof.Climb left of the bolt line for a good bit in the lower third of the route. Cool switch back right to the bolt line up just past half way. Bust out left again for a move or two before great jugs take you over the fun roof moves. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Monster Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Monster wall overview.
BETA PHOTO: Monster wall overview.
A view of the western half of Monster Wall.  Taken from beneath the start of 'Revenge of the Werepig'.
A view of the western half of Monster Wall. Taken...
Now this is what sport climbing is all about.
Now this is what sport climbing is all about.
Comments on Monster Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 5, 2010
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Mar 26, 2009

Monster Wall ? I don't know, I am sensing a little copyright battle (ours is dated-Dec 2006)! Cease and desist!

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 27, 2009

:-) I think it's OK--both walls boast only hard routes with cool names. Truce brother?

By Ken Kisiel
Aug 9, 2009

New route left of Grendal. Any info? Took a big whipper between the third and fourth bolts as I found myself in a position without a free hand while staring at the bolt. The third bolt was lose to begin with but it held the fall. We encountered several other bolts of the same quality that seem loose beyond just a loose nut. What kind of bolts are being used on these new lines, studs or rawl?

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 9, 2009

The climb left of Grendal is a fairly new climb Josh put up this summer, probably in the lower 5.10 range. Sorry to hear about the loose bolts- that surprises me, and scares me a little bit.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 10, 2009

I can definitely speak for the bolts I've put in and am quite sure the other routes have the same type of bolts--mostly 3 inch wedge (not five piece sleeve) bolts that are 3/8". I've noticed a particular issue that seems to be prevalent at UEF...the surface of the rock is quite gritty and if the area where the bolt is placed isn't first cleaned of the surface grit at time of installation, the grit breaks down and the hanger/nuts loosen pretty quickly. The hangers require a "break-in" period. Josh and I have been taking a wrench with us when we go to climb to re-tighten loose nuts after this break-in period.

I have not, however, noticed any loose studs which would indeed be a safety issue. I'll take a look at the bolts on this route next time I'm up there.

By Josh Smith
Aug 10, 2009

The route left of Grendal has 3.5" Powers SS wedge bolts. I'm sorry to hear that two of the nuts were loose--as Jason said, we've been trying to check and re-tighten nuts because it does seem to be a bit of a pattern out there. I've yet to see a stud that seems loose, and I have seen the same hanger issue with a Powers (Rawl) 5 piece, so I don't think it's the bolts (I sure hope it's not, though if it is, we need to know). I've also not seen anything loose after I re-tightened, but I haven't been up there as much this summer as last year.

Let's keep the thread going, and if folks notice other anomalies or patterns, we'll need to decide if something should be done. In the mean time, Jason and I will continue to check and re-tighten when we're out there.

By Ken Kisiel
Aug 10, 2009

Seemed loose as I wiggled it around but I may have been shaking at that point. It is a worthy line (two stars) but I hope harder than 10....at least 11a or I am really getting weak.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 10, 2009

If it's the route I'm thinking of (arete-ish left of Grendal), I thought it was 5.10 but I remember falling too so I feel your pain.

By Ken Kisiel
Aug 10, 2009

Wow I must have been blown after excrementally weighted as I thought it was harder than that, will have to try it again. Very sustained 10b as I made several dynamic slaps through the second bolt then encountered difficult arete move to the forth. I am getting anxious to try again fresh. Josh this is a wortwhile addition!

By Josh Smith
Aug 14, 2009

Ken, George and I went up and climbed the route again last night (It's better than I remembered, which is always a nice surprise). I checked all the bolts, and the loose hanger was the fault of my poor choice of placement. It was resting on a sharp point of rock, which must have busted at some point (maybe when you fell). I tightened it and that may not happen again, but I really need to go back with a hammer and flatten the rock behind the hanger so it seats properly against the rock. I'll do that next week. All the others were fine. There are some hidden jugs (one just below the second bolt, and others on the face to the right of the arete), so I bet you just missed those. A little traffic will make it more obvious.

By henrik
Jul 5, 2010

Lost gear!
I was up at monster wall today, sunday july 5th. When packing up we found a belay device in the cookie monster area. There was a group of climbers there earlier and one of the guys name was Amo. If anyone knows him could you check with him if it's his. You can email me at internet@henriksandin.se.
If you are the actual owner of the belay device you should email me and we'll try to sort out getting it back to you.
Cheers
Henrik