A slightly chossy, but easy first few feet gain a gorgeous 4-camalot crack in a left-facing corner. Jam or layback up this OW to the obvious "ear" feature and layback out the flake to a rest. A few awkward moves of flared OW lead back into the corner, which is now tight 4.5 camalots...just small enough not to let your knee in. At the top, traverse to the Crankcase anchors via a balancy foot traverse.
Just right of Crankcase in the corner.
Maybe one each 1-3.5 camalots, a bunch of 4 and 4.5 camalots
From: Oakland, Ca
Oct 12, 2010
Guidebook rates this 12-
|By Drew Thayer|
From: Durango, CO
Sep 26, 2011
This climb is 5.11, it may be extremely sustained, but there are no moves that warrant a 5.12 rating.
Gear: green camalot gets you off the ground, 4x #4 camalots (new) get you to the "ear" flake, after that it's un-varying mid-range #5 camalot (new) so walk two the whole way and you're set.
Traverse to the Crankcase anchors is pretty exciting when you're tired