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Monopoly 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: not summer
Page Views: 1,995
Submitted By: bernard on Mar 4, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Closed Route 

This route is outside the boundaries of the SCC property and is currently off-limits to climbing. Please do not trespass on private property by climbing this route.


Description 

One of the Steele classics and one of the more quality mid-grade trad routes in the state.

Monopoly begins on the same holds as Aura and Man Overboard, but it traverses across the face, under the old, fixed pro of the other routes, to the arete. Finish by staying on the arete proper....where you will find grand vistas and airy exposure.

The top is a bit ledgy......there used to be a tree at the first prominent ledge but it died and fell off.....so now to set an anchor that is generally over the arete you have to go higher....and the complication of doing this along with the traversing nature of the route might lead one to settle on belaying the second from the top.

Just have your act together and don't commit a bunch of tomfoolery by getting up near the finish and commencing a yelling conversation with your belayer on the ground about what to do....have a plan.


Location 

At the Amphitheater area, starts at the base of the dihedral that forms Bird's Nest Crack. Four routes start from this location, Bird's Nest (5.9), Aura (5.11), Man Overboard (5.10 c/d) and Monopoly.


Protection 

standard Steele rack. Some long runners for the route's direction change and for the ledgy finish



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By ecessg
Mar 5, 2010

"Just have your act together and don't commit a bunch of tomfoolery by getting up near the finish and commencing a yelling conversation with your belayer on the ground about what to do....have a plan."

sage advice and one that i wish more climbers would adhere to.

By sammy raviv
May 2, 2010

"Four routes start from this location, Bird's Nest (5.9), Aura (5.11), one whose name i can't remember (5.10 c/d), and Monopoly."

route you can't remember is Man Overboard. I have it going 11a/b.

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Dec 23, 2010

There are now two big fat bolts with rings at the top.

Arete
Arete








Traverse. One nice spot on the wall to find morning shade in the Summer. Three routes on this face plus the corner and Chandler's Roof.
Traverse. One nice spot on the wall to find morning shade in the Summer. Three routes on this face plus the corner and Chandler's Roof.

By Jamie S.
From: Gold River, CA
Feb 24, 2011

Just some route history:

Joel Berry attempted the first ascent traverse at the beginning, but backed off. I went up and completed it to the arete and called it Monopoly. Buddy Barron did the first ascent of the arete. I think Les put the whole thing together. Classic for its grade and exposure.

-Uni

By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
Dec 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Really fun climb -- great exposure.

For me, the traverse was very thin. The feet are great but it's heady and the potential for a pendulum fall adds some mental difficulty to the route.

The arete is easy and well protected.