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> Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribi…
Monolith Crack
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet)
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Herford's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monolith Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Rocking Chair T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Abraham brothers 1905 |
| Page Views: | 1,147 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Davies UK on Nov 1, 2009 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
P1: 30' Tunnel under the Monolith.
P2: 30' 5.5 Climb a very polished and awkward groove to a stance beside the upper wide crack.
P3: 80' Easy if you can fit inside, impossible if you can't. Strip down, breathe out and sidle into the crack sideways for about 15' (try lying down and going in horizontally if all else fails) until it widens sufficiently to start chimneying upwards towards daylight. Then climb slabs to the top.
P3a: 80' 5.6 ("De Selincourt's variation"). If the crack is unattractive, swing out onto the R wall, then follow cracks and slabs to the top.
P3b: 80'. On the first ascent in 1905 the Abrahams climbed the crack on the outside! This is a hard offwidth problem that looks about 5.10.
P2: 30' 5.5 Climb a very polished and awkward groove to a stance beside the upper wide crack.
P3: 80' Easy if you can fit inside, impossible if you can't. Strip down, breathe out and sidle into the crack sideways for about 15' (try lying down and going in horizontally if all else fails) until it widens sufficiently to start chimneying upwards towards daylight. Then climb slabs to the top.
P3a: 80' 5.6 ("De Selincourt's variation"). If the crack is unattractive, swing out onto the R wall, then follow cracks and slabs to the top.
P3b: 80'. On the first ascent in 1905 the Abrahams climbed the crack on the outside! This is a hard offwidth problem that looks about 5.10.
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