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Finger Flatiron
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East Face Right/Finger Flatiron 
East Face/Finger Flatiron 
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Monodoigt 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, J. Rossiter, R. Woof, K. Kuddes, 1988
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2003
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  • Description 

    A pretty, thin, bolted slab which is pretty thin on a slightly-concave, short face. It is located on the W side of the Finger Flatiron in a small amphitheatre facing SW below & S of the Finger-Box col or just above the western slot between the Finger & Hand on the approach to Mere Wall. It stays in the shade on a summer morn.

    It is pictured in Rossiter's Boulder Climbs North guidebook. It is somewhat reminiscent of Prince of Darkness, Eldo or Slabmaster, Fern Canyon.

    Move up onto a small shelf. Stretch to clip the first bolt. Short stick clips have been used here. Delicate balance with an emphasis on foot technique bring you to the shallow, monodoigt _bucket_ just R of the second bolt. It is the only _jug._ From here it is thinner. On your L you can try to undercling a couple upside-down edges. The crux can be surmounted L via a wide pinch handhold or R via a small smooth pebble for the foot (if you are taller). Close fitting edging shoes may give you a slight edge.


    Protection 

    3 QDs, cams for anchors.



    Comments on Monodoigt Add Comment
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    By Doug Redosh
    May 29, 2003

    I agree with Leo, but calling the [monodoigt] hold a jug or a bucket is generous. Easier for tall people with good foot technique. Can be toproped from medium sized cams (no bolts for anchors unlike other sport climbs). Fairly short route however, like many on the Finger.