Mono Mercy  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Chris Hirsch (??) Mid 2000s (??) Submitted By:  randy baum on Jul 10, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Open with restrictions: MORE INFO >>> Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

By the mid 2000s, darkness had besieged the chossy steeps of the river Willow. Like Gandalf the Grey in the Two Towers, Chris Hirsch, another gangly wizard, shone light into the abyss. Equipped only with a grigri and some Sobe iced tea, young Hirsch had the foresight -- nay, vision! -- to unearth (literally, this rig was dirty) -- another link-up at Willow, the Mono Mercy link.

Hence that fateful day, the skies at Willow have been bright (however the choss remains, the crowds are bigger, Hudson is still WT...you get the idea). And, in honor of this great achievement, no one has since -- to this author's knowledge -- had the gall to climb this visionary piece of climbing history. So, take up your staff (aka stick clips), grab some magic potions (aka a Sobe), and ride in and send.

Once attired in Gandalf robe and staff, begin on the Mono Route. At the roof that guards the chains for this route, move left and directly tackle the crux of Rejection and Mercy. Finish on Rejection and Mercy, clipping the lower chains (the top are unequalized, which is bad for your rope and for the higher anchor, which receives much more wear and tear than the lower).

Location 

Just to the right of the roof crack. Lower off the chains. If working the route, please use your own draws on the chains. This helps prolong the life of the fixed anchors.

Protection 

Draws, including at least three long draws (one for the bolt below the chains on Mono; one for the first draw you clip on Rejection; and one for the bolt below the final roof on Rejection). Kneepad is optional if you use/find any kneepads. REMEMBER: KNEEBARING IS CHEATING. I ALSO DO NOT USE STICKY RUBBER OR DYNAMIC ROPES. WARREN HARDING IS MY HOMEBOY.