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 ADVANCED
Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T,S 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

Monkey's Uncle 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, 2000
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 7, 2002

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This small ceiling felt like the crux of Monkey's ...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Between The Bureau on the left and Transylverina on the right is a new line that takes off from the talus and heads toward two shallow roof systems. The line splits at the 30 foot point into left and right hand variations. Near the second roof, the right hand line splits again for an easy finish on the right that dodges the roof move. The interesting sequence through the roof moves left and then steps back over the roof just before the anchor. Good rock, nice pro, interesting climbing, and all rather benign since the climbing is mostly in the feet.


Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.



Photos of Monkey's Uncle Slideshow Add Photo
Bart just above the 5th bolt.
Bart just above the 5th bolt.
Bart just above the 5th bolt on Monkey's Uncle.
Bart just above the 5th bolt on Monkey's Uncle.
Above the "arete" moves.
Above the "arete" moves.
Mike Keegan nearing the top of Monkey's Uncle.
Mike Keegan nearing the top of Monkey's Uncle.
Comments on Monkey's Uncle Add Comment
Show which comments
By stephen sangdahl
Jul 11, 2002

This route (the straight up variation) is called "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d. It is located approx. 30' right of "Wanker" (behind tree and boulder). 3 variations exist; going left from 3rd bolt out small roof to thin holds on headwall is "A.C.E." 5.12a . The middle line up small corner and small roof is "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d . The easy right hand finish is "Monkey's Sister" 5.10b/c . All end at same 3 bolt anchor. FAs of all three routes; Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, summer 2000.

By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 2, 2002

We really enjoyed this climb, the multiple small roofs kept this interesting to the end. One question though, Stephen, how bad were the large flakes at the last roof before they were glued (the middle 10d version I guess from your description)? It seemed to us that if they were pulled out it might have made the climb an 11 or so (but who knows, right?). That was the only drawback for me, seeing all that glue. Just wanted to get your thoughts on why you wanted to save them.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 15, 2008

The climbing is good on these routes.
However, I feel that a couple of the bolts could have been placed in better positions, especially for those who are climbing the Monkey's Sister variation at their limit.

By Peter J. Beyel
From: Glenwood Springs
Jul 17, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Is this route chipped? Some of those edges feel too perfect.