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Monkeys Paw 
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Monkeys Paw 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Jonathan Kingston, Shawn Mccauley (SDS)
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Sep 13, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: up from the pad

Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Stand start on left crimp and right hand good sloping edge (looks recently broken). Fire up and right to a good horizontal, then straight up to the right corner of a protruding triangular hold, top out. SDS goes at V5/6.

Location 

Far right on the backside of the Brain boulder. Just past the Ape Rage boulder

Protection 

Pad


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By shawn mccauley
Jan 18, 2013

Jonathan Kingston FA'd the stand up version in 1997, I added a sit start in 1999 and called it Monkey's Paw. That obvious hold that looks recently broken, broke in like 1997.
By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Jan 20, 2013
rating: V4 6B

I take it the SDS is harder than the V3/4 stand start? I will check this out next time over there. Also, I remember that hold being not broken in 2003/4 and the problem being about V2 as a Stand start... not sure if it we are talking about the same hold.
By shawn mccauley
Jan 22, 2013

The stand start was a right facing blocky hold slightly above head height. photo you guys have is the way it was back in the late 90s
The SDS was maybe V5/6 started on crimps, high left foot, you rock up to shallow pocket with left hand pop to the broken hold in question with right hand, which where the stand start begins.
By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Jan 25, 2013
rating: V4 6B

You are probably right, but the stand start hold is the one behind the leaves, so it is pretty obscured in this pic. It is a pretty long lock off from a slopey sidepull/gaston to the visible edge up above the leaves now. Used to be a good edge on a blockey thing in my memory.