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Valley Massif
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Monkey Wrench 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,549
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 5, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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In the flared crux. Note that the #6 was no...


This is the first crack system right of Screw on the Northwest face of the Valley Massif. This route consists mostly of excellent 5.8/5.9 hands with the 5.10a flare in between for added excitement. This single pitch leads to the same belay ledge as for Screw. Heel and Toe describes the first section of this route as moderate offwidth, but it's actually moderate hands.

The handcrack ascends from the ground about 30 feet to a horizontal crack / ledge. From the ledge, a right-leaning flare heads up past a bush where it becomes a handcrack. The flare is the crux, and Heel and Toe describes it as hard to protect, although it is not. A #5 Camalot would protect it best, though a flaring #4 Camalot works.


Cams from 0.5" to 6.0", with doubles in the 0.75"-3.0" range. Mid-range stoppers.

Photos of Monkey Wrench Slideshow Add Photo
Down low on Monkey Wrench.
Down low on Monkey Wrench.
Ethan about to get the crux!
Ethan about to get the crux!
Ethan doing Monkey Wrench with ease!
Ethan doing Monkey Wrench with ease!
Comments on Monkey Wrench Add Comment
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By nolteboy
Jun 16, 2005

A very good pitch. Slammer hands up to the ledge below the flare, at which point a yellow tcu can be placed high and left. After stepping off the ledge and placing a good #4 (or maybe 4.5?) camalot, a couple of 5.10 moves gets you thru the flare and back into hand and fist sizes...