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The Monkey House
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Face Full of Bush S 
Monkey Bars S 
Monkey Business S 
Monkey Pause S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 
Monkey Shine S 
New Pollution, The S 
Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 
Schwing Salute S 
Soap on a Rope S 

Monkey Shine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, September, 1999
Page Views: 771
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 22, 2001

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At the third bolt.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Monkey Shine climbs the long slab immediately to the right of The Sprawl. The slab actually defines the cut that separates The Monkey House proper from the uphill sector that has the Death Block above and Home Boy Bonanza. Run the slab up to a small roof, pull this on the right, and chase some more bolts. There is a loose block jammed into a slot at the roof. This can be pulled, perhaps, but every time I went up to do so, far too many people were below to make this a safe proposition. Yank it if you can, but the block is stable and it does not need to be pulled to enjoy the climb. There is a slightly tricky crux just before the anchor.


Protection 

QD only. This 95 ft route needs a 60 m rope to descend and about a dozen draws. There is a double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Monkey Shine Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux roof below the anchors.
At the crux roof below the anchors.
Comments on Monkey Shine Add Comment
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By MARSHALL BRITTLE
Sep 25, 2001

THIS ROUTE HAS NO ANCHORS!!!!!!! IT CAN BE TOPPED OUT, BUT IT WAS A RUDE, RISE AND SHINE GETTING DOWN. SO YOU CRAZY KIDS BE CAREFUL!!!!! DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO THE BOLTS AT THE TOP?????

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 17, 2003

Marshall - I only now noticed the comment about missing anchors. If they are still missing, then I can get them reinstalled. Any idea if they are indeed still missing?

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Apr 18, 2003

Richard, I was up there last weekend, and there are two open shuts at the top of the wall.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 19, 2003

Thanks, Guy. I'll run up here when I get a chance and see if replacement makes any sense. Sounds like it might be okay (?).

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 25, 2004

Anchors have been replaced and the lowest bolt re-installed. Some more brushing has cleaned things up a bit. This is the third set of anchors placed here, and while MS is not a great route, it is the only warm up here and it would be nice if folks just left the gear alone.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The new book calls this 5.9! It was hard, dirty, and not the casual warmup I was looking for. I thought Face Full of Bush was way easier than this....

By Andy B
May 10, 2014

Some loose flakes and plenty of guano. Lots of lichen on the right side down low. Obviously doesn't get much traffic. I think this route is more heady than anything. The hard crux at the top is safely bolted though.