|The Monkey House
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Monkey See, Monkey Do only works for some monkeys. The Monkey House wall contains a short sector with a large roof 30 - 35 feet above the talus. Presently, a single route runs through the middle of the roof and this is Monkey See, Monkey Do. If you look at doing this route, bear in mind that looks can be deceiving. The roof on Monkey See, Monkey Do looks intimidating, while the slab approach looks tweaker but casual. Pull up off the talus for a clip just before a foot wide overlap, thin finger-crimps and a long reach will just snag a second clip, a crux in its own right. Pull the 5.12b crux following the second bolt as a left angling finger traverse on disappearing feet. Breathe easy from here on out because all of the difficult climbing can be disposed of in the first 15 feet off the ground. No beta for the roof except to say that it is well protected; I felt that the conventional long sling below the roof was not even essential given the placement of bolts on this route. Pull up over the roof on.... No more beta. If you can't dig this move, why climb? Two stars for the continuity, good stone, great finish, and the tricky finger-intensive start. Let's all chant another mantra for the Master of Clear Creek, Alan -The-Bolting-Fiend- Nelson.
QDs only. This 50 foot route needs only half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Jeff after the crux.
Jeff in the thick of it.
|By Chris Cavallaro|
Apr 28, 2003
I personally thought the crux was getting up to the 2nd clip, and then the traverse was slightly easier....
|By Mark Dixon|
Jul 20, 2003
I agree with Chris that the crux seemed like getting to just beyond the second bolt. Clipping the second bolt after doing the crux is an option to consider, as the fall from there is not bad (as I proved a couple of times!). On the other hand, blowing the clip from below might put you on the ground.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Apr 17, 2004
Getting to just left and below the second bolt is certainly the crux. Beyond that this route has hard moves but nowhere near as difficult as attaining the crimper pinch thing. I definitely recommend clipping from just right of the second bolt. As indicated this is a good stance and well protected. Alternatively just stick clip it from the ground. I am guessing that something broke for the starting set of moves to arrive at the second bolt as this move was waaaay harder than anything else on the route and there is clear evidence of breakage.This individual move seemed harder than anything on ten digit dialing.
|By Ben Collett|
Sep 29, 2007
This route is fun. The upper roof is really fun. However, to me, it felt kind of hard for Clear Creek 12b. It definitely felt harder than Ken T'ank, The Great Excape and Big Dog. The traverse really feels way easier than what lies before it.
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 5, 2010
Getting to the 2nd bolt is definitely a powerful crux (it's not the only crux. There are three). I usually blow that move a few times before my fingers warm up to those small crimpers and bad feet before sending it. However, when doing that move the 1st bolt is at your waist and an attentive belayer should not allow you to hit the talus below. I use to stick clip the 2nd bolt until my belayer forced me to do it without since I was merely toproping the crux.
|By Luke Childers|
Jun 26, 2010
Great line! Almost an on-sight. It will go done next time. Put a long draw on the last bolt just after the final roof section!!! Falling on the finshing moves will shred a standerd length sport draw. I mean a draw that is about 4-6 inches!!! Just two falls at the end of the day came close to cutting my draw in half!!! That in mind this is a grat summer climb!!!!