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The Wake-Up Wall
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XTZ T 

Monkey Rhythm 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Robert Finlay 83
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: dnoB ekiM on Nov 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Shallow Dihedral that goes up and right to rusty anchors.

Location 

About a 100 yards left of the Wake-up wall proper

Protection 

Trad to bolted anchor


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By Cultivating Mass
Nov 23, 2011

Did you climb this thing? Saw you posted Left Crack but noted no ascent, having done this climb I'd be surprised if this description was all you'd have to say about it if you'd broken out the rack for this one. It's a pretty exciting lead!
By Cultivating Mass
Apr 8, 2012

Update: Did this again today, replaced anchors with bomber ASCA stainless with prudent white-rock spacing. Rock is still crunchy, but a fun lead. Around 9+ not 10+, maybe 10- if you're not up on white rock technique. Double rack to .75 is recommended, wires protect well on this one also, but are tougher to spot. Route has lots of gear but is still shedding holds including in the gear placements; PG-13 for sure, be careful on this one, but it's fun and well worth it!