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Monkey Press 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Mar 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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The Lowdown 

This mantle problem can be downright embarrasing seeing as how it's only 4 feet off the ground but more difficult than the topout of Ride the Lightning. Sit start on large jugs at the lip of the roof and you'll notice there aren't any feet. Swing a heel out left, then use a very thin crimp up and left to press it out and standup. This can be fun to watch, but pray nobody is looking if you get spanked.

Location 

On a small boulder that forms a roof between Terrorist and Vintage. If you're standing in front of Terrorist, look to your left towards the other Storm Boulder. You'll see the low roof.

Protection 

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2014
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 17, 2009
rating: V2-3 5+

Bryce, I enjoyed onsighting this short problem. Thanks for recommending it to Jakob (who passed on the word).
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 20, 2009
rating: V1+ 5

so i dont know whats up but when i did this it didnt feel like v3 at all... i onsighted it too but it felt like V1+ maybe V2 but deffinately not V3... at least to me it didnt... i would be interested to see other people get on it and see what they think....BUT! no matter what the grade it was a really fun mantle problem :)
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2009
rating: V2-3 5+

I had mixed feelings about the grade. I wouldn't say this is easier than E-Z Cheese, a "classic V2 for the grade". Granted comparing two problems like that is apples to oranges, this must go at V2 at least. Maybe you're just a mantle fiend and you don't know it? :)
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 20, 2009
rating: V1+ 5

haha ride the lighting and boulder x here i come :)
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Jul 21, 2009

I'm guessing the difference in perception of difficulty comes down to either beta or climbing style/strengths. Maybe you found a new sequence, maybe a hold broke, maybe you're stronger than you think you are. I know a few people who think this problem is hard for V3. On most days I find it much more difficult than Hobbit Hole, the standard for V3.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 21, 2009
rating: V1+ 5

meh to each his own i guess
By Tristan Baldwin
From: Amherst, NH
Apr 21, 2014
rating: V3 6A

I climbed this immediately after sending Boulder X, it didn't feel too much easier and took almost as many tries. Calling this V3 may almost be as bad as calling New Direction at Lincoln Woods a V2. This climb involves some pretty serious groveling to really get established on top.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 22, 2014
rating: V2-3 5+

Re-read my comments above and wondering if I'm a dick, was not actually on Monkey Press, or was just having a really good day. I'm going to have to revisit this problem.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 22, 2014
rating: V3 6A

Boulder X took me over a decade... monkey press took me one try in my sneakers... i vote straight up V to the 3...
zero groveling once you get used to mantling Tristan... and seriously you did boulder X in your first year of climbing! WFT nice work!
By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Jun 17, 2014

didn't feel too bad, but the self-reflection session about why I wasted any skin/ energy on maybe the dumbest problem at pway that followed was certainly not worth it.
By Tristan Baldwin
From: Amherst, NH
Jul 10, 2014
rating: V3 6A

So now that I've climbed this about a half dozen times, maybe V3 is right. I have used a couple different sets of beta for this now and am pretty confident that my original beta was simply wrong.